The Viceroy
The Viceroy’s greatest asset is its terrace, which accommodates an impressively large alfresco dining area from which to enjoy the open view across the harbor. With its buxom goddess idols demurely smiling at you from various corners, you are sure to slowly slip into some sort of reverie, if not from the exotic food, then from the ultra-laid back holiday ambiance. The menu is pleasantly varied, offering a range of Mediterranean dishes alongside the classic Indian fare. Catering to both vegetarians and carnivores, there are set menus suitable for the lone diner and larger parties. Be sure to sample the tempting Indian cocktails or for a healthy meal, go for an ayurvedic dinner.
2/F, Sun Hung Kai Center, 30 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2827-7777
Gunga Din’s
“You’re a better man than I am, Gunga Din!” Rudyard Kipling’s famous line seems particularly apt for the good Indian fare served here. This place opened in 1978 in a basement with only a tiny sign advertising its presence, and has thrived on word-of-mouth ever since. It was renovated a couple of years back and is now more fine dining than ever, but at prices that are more Calcutta than Central. It’s hard to go wrong, with most dishes less than $100. Prepared by Indian chefs with decades of experience, the curries, lamb specialties and tandoori dishes are all authentic and made with imported spices and herbs unique to each dish. Wonderful.
LG/F, 57-59 Wyndham St., Central, 2523-1439
Indian Village
Like many Indians in Hong Kong, Kanchan Panjabi is Sindhi and a home-cooked meal for her usually consists of wheat-based flat bread (phulka), rice and two other dishes, usually one dry and one with a tomato-based gravy. Although Kanchan enjoys the ever-popular Gaylord (1/F, 23-25 Ashley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2376-1001) and Tandoor (see opposite)—she highly recommends the garlic naan and vegetable kebabs from Gaylord and Tandoor’s buffet, “a perfect blend of south and north Indian food”—for food that reminds her of home, she heads to Indian Village. Tucked away near the Mid-Levels Escalator, this tiny place serves scrumptious dal makhani, a Panjabi delicacy made from lentils and beans and a close runner-up to the one her mom makes. And don’t worry if you come out smelling of the kitchen: according to Kanchan, that is a sure sign of a good authentic Indian restaurant.
31-37 Mosque St., Mid-Levels, 2525-5488
Jashan
Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. Indian dancing performances—mercifully short and lots of fun—mean this place is lively rather than hushed. A great value lunch buffet is available weekdays.
1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3105-5300
Tandoor
Biryani comes with unabashedly cheesy Bollywood-esque song and dance in the chintzy enclaves of Tandoor. Since moving from Wyndham Street in 2004, Tandoor has never looked back. The lunch buffet is famously fun with a huge range of Indian classics set to live music. In the evening the playful atmosphere turns into a full-on musical, with two performers belting out Indian classics. And so to the food. The biryani, vindaloo and chicken sagwala are fragrant, tasty dishes but the standout is tandoor chicken, perfectly succulent from the clay oven. And try the street food dishes such as bhelburi, a sweet and sour salad. Service is speedy, attentive and friendly without being intrusive.
1/F, Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2845-2262