Executors of the Estate
Built in 1969, Lower Ngau Tau Kok estate is the last “old style,” community-focused housing estate in Hong Kong. June Ng takes a last look at the people who have made this place their home for nearly 40 years before the complex is demolished forever.
Despite its location between the high-density, faceless complexes of Telford and Amoy Gardens in Kowloon Bay, the Ngau Tau Kok public housing estate has managed to retain its own sense of character for the past 40 years. It’s famed for its delicious dai pai dongs and cha chaan tengs, and as a first-generation public housing estate, it’s much-loved by the nostalgic, and fans of all things retro. But urban redevelopment means that its days are numbered, and the estate will soon be shut down and subsequently demolished by mid-May.
And while the building has inevitably deteriorated, it’s still beloved by its older residents, thanks to the open-plan design and relaxed atmosphere straight out of the 60s. Kwun Tong District Councilor Ben Chan Kok-wah lived in the estate for 30 years, and is currently involved in relocating his former neighbors. While he acknowledges that its destruction is inevitable, he expresses concern about the welfare of its residents. “The redevelopment will affect about 4,000 households, 40 percent of which are elderly people living alone,” he says. “Although most of them have found new homes, it will be difficult for the elderly to adapt to a new environment, especially when they’ve lived in Ngau Tau Kok for so long.”
The demolition will also be a blow for an increasingly rare aspect of public housing estate culture: small, family-run shops that found a home in the estate’s malls and markets, but not in newer malls, which only cater to supermarkets and chain stores. Dr. Ip Iam Chong from the Department of Cultural Studies of the Lingnan University believes that the erosion of this culture will result in a one-dimensional society. “In the past, there were many opportunities for small business owners to make a living in public housing estates, but now they’ve all been replaced by chain stores owned by big companies. We don’t have traditional industries anymore,” he says. “In cities, the more variety we have, the better, but mall culture is killing our individuality.”
The final days of the Lower Ngau Tau Kok Estate
Neighborhood center
Mr. Tsui is the chairman of Block 11’s Mutual Aid Committee. He’s lived in the estate for almost 40 years, since it was newly built. He still does his shift in the committee’s office, located underneath the stairwell. “We used to be very important, as security wasn’t good in the estate. We would organize patrol teams,” he recalls. “The neighbors would always be willing to help each other out.”
Wedding shop
In his 32 years of running a traditional Chinese wedding gown shop, Mr. Lam has seen many girls from the neighborhood get married. The gown on the mannequin in the window display was made by him 30 years ago and has been rented out hundreds of times by women from the estate. (39-40, Block 9, Lower Ngau Tau Kok Estate)
Toy shop
Mr. Tse has run his toy and stationery shop in the estate for 40 years. The location is perfect, he says, as it’s opposite the local schools and many people use the alleyway in front of his shop as a shortcut to nearby restaurants. “After all these years, what makes me happiest is seeing my customers grow up and bring their children here to buy toys,” he says. He plans to take a long break once his shop closes.
Grocery store
The income from running the Cheung Tak-shing grocery store enabled Ms Cheung’s parents to raise her and her eight siblings. “I have so many memories of this place,” she says. “I particularly remember the times spent chasing my brothers and sisters down the corridors.” The store will be closed for good when Ngau Tau Kok estate is demolished, as Cheung’s parents are getting old and the small business cannot compete with big chain stores. Nevertheless, the 40-member Cheung family will say goodbye to the shop with a final gathering before they close its doors.
Cha chaan teng
Hing Kee is famous for its juicy pork chop bun and milk tea, but more than that, it’s been a gathering place for Ngau Tau Kok residents for 40 years. It’s now run by the original owner’s six sons, who each take turns on the duty roster. Lam Chi-hang is fifth among the brothers. He says that most of his clients are residents and students from the nearby school. The siblings are currently seeking a new venue to run the business from, but Lam says that nowhere can compare to its current location. (11-12, Block 10, Lower Ngau Tau Kok Estate)
Dai pai dong
After hours, the estate is surprisingly hectic, thanks to the late-night dai pai dongs that spring up in the evening. Besides the usual joints serving Cantonese and Chuichow cuisine, the ever-popular Wan Hing Restaurant (6, Block 14, Lower Ngau Tau Kok Estate) is run by Mr. Lin and his son, and serves its specialty hot pot rice.