The Sweet Escape
Not quite full after dinner? Cyril Leung finds the best places to enjoy healthy local desserts.
Hong Kong spoils us with its vast range of cuisines. So assaulted are we with food from all sides that a slice of heavy cheesecake or creamy, sweet tiramisu is often the last thing we want to end a meal with. But if you crave something sweet, try a Cantonese dessert, otherwise known as “tong sui” (sugar water) or “teem bun” (sweet treats). They’re supposedly made to have restorative properties, like much of Cantonese cuisine, so expect light, simple recipes that aid digestion and cleanse the palate.
1. Kung Wo Dou Bun Chong
This century-old Hong Kong institution is famed for its soybean dishes, for which it proudly uses old school, manually operated devices rather than modern machinery. Its daofu fa, or sweet tofu, is lovingly dished out of a huge porcelain pot that’s been in use for over 40 years. It comes with a sprinkling of brown sugar and is doused in ginger syrup. For something savory, try their stir-fried tofu with marinated fish and dried shrimp stuffing with a dab of chili sauce, and then cool your mouth down with a fresh soymilk.
118 Pei Ho St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-6871
2. Kwan Kee
Sure, Kwan Kee’s sticky puddings may look unassuming, but once you cut them open, it’s easy to see why they remain so popular with Sham Shui Po diners. The red bean pudding is packed with fragrant whole red beans, while the black sesame pudding has nine individually steamed layers of sesame paste. For something with a tang, try the white sugar pudding, the sweetness of which is offset with a hint of sourness that’s rather like yoghurt.
Shop 10, 115-117 Fuk Wah St., Sham Shui Po, 2360-0328
3. Chiu Chow Hop Shing Dessert
If you’re looking for something with a little more substance, give Chiu Chow traditional desserts a try. Glutinous rice balls filled with a thick, aromatic black sesame paste are served in soup, together with sweet, silky beancurd sheets. Or, sample the ever-popular ching sum yuen, elastic jelly paired with mung beans and lotus seeds, renowned for its cooling and soothing properties. Word of warning: portions are huge, so eat a light dinner if you want to make the most out of your visit to this jam-packed dessert shop.
9 Lung Kong Rd., Kowloon City, 2383-3026