Zongs of Praise

Zongzi, or zong for short, are glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo or reed leaves and eaten to celebrate Tuen Ng, or Dragon Boat Festival. According to legend, poet-patriot Qu Yuan from the Warring States period was accused of being a traitor (some academics speculate that he was the king’s lover) and jumped into the Miluo river to prove his innocence. The local people were so touched by this patriotic (dumb?) act, they decided to prevent the fish and shrimps from eating Qu Yuan’s poor defenseless corpse by organizing dragon boat races and throwing sticky rice dumplings into the river, hoping the beating paddles would drive away the fish, and the sticky rice would glue their mouths shut.

Making zong used to be a family event, and rural Chinese still do during big festivals. Recipes and fillings vary from region to region, ranging from savory to sweet. But with shops and restaurants in the cities clambering over themselves to come up with more and more varieties of extravagant and decadent dumplings, it seems that urban mothers and grandmothers are taking a break from this tradition.

Cantonese zong are wrapped in a pyramid-like shape, and are customarily filled with mashed mung beans, five-spiced pork and the yolk of a salted duck egg. The sweet variety, called Gaan Seui (Jianshui in Putonghua) is treated with lye water (a calcium hydroxide solution, probably added historically for its strong anti-microbial effect), which dyes them bright yellow and imparts an alkaline taste. Typically stuffed with sweet fillings like sweetened red bean paste or jujubes, or sometimes with nothing at all, they’re eaten as dessert, dipped in sugar or syrup. You can pop down to any restaurant or neighborhood store to purchase one for around $18-$30.

Maxim-ize
Almost as old as the legend of Qu Yuan is the tradition of Hong Kongers buying their zong from Maxim’s, and with good reason: They offer one of the best examples of Chiu Chow zong in town. Zong from this region contain salted egg yolks, dried shrimp, conpoy, as well as a sweet bean paste so you can have your entrée and dessert in one dumpling ($95).
Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, 2525-8246

Fukien Flavors
Pat Chun offers up a Fujian-style zong that is a little smaller than the norm, but nevertheless packs a lot of flavor. Cowpea, garlic, shallots, mushrooms, dried shrimps, chestnut. And unusually, the rice is doused in oyster sauce and tossed around a wok before being wrapped in the leaves ($23).
Pat Chun, 75 Wellington St., 2545-6700

Shanghai Zong
Our shiny sister city to the north, Shanghai also has its own take on zong. Its shape is cylindrical and the rice is seasoned with soy sauce first before wrapping, giving it a darker color. And it’s minimalist. Stuffed with nothing but pork, it’s usually salted and tends to be a little bit more fatty and therefore more delectably unctuous after it’s steamed and the lard permeates the sticky rice. Try one for yourself at Old San Yang ($18).
G/F, 27B Lee Garden Rd., Causeway Bay, 2890-2534