Professional divers, thrill seekers, and professionals in need of some total relaxation can all find something to float their boat in Koh Chang. A 30-minute ferry ride from Trat’s mainland, the island is blessed with a fresh sea breeze, crystal clear waters (it’s a national park) and lush tropical vegetation. But the past 10 years have taken their toll on the island paradise: vans, buses, songtaews, hotels, resorts, and the ever ubiquitous 7-Elevens are all cashing in—and weighing on—the elephant island’s pristine nature. It now takes a little help and driving around to get to Koh Chang’s many remaining charming spots. Despite recent developments, “Lonely Beach” Hat Tha Nam is still much quieter than the buzzing Khao-San-like Hat Sai Kao (avoid at all costs). Located on the southern end of the island, between Kai Bae and rocky Bai Lan Bay, the white soft sand here makes for quiet and relaxing walks. If even that is too civilized for the Indiana Jones in you, rough it to Eastern side of Koh Chang, to Hat Yao (Long Beach), where you’ll find huts with no electricity. If you get bored of snorkeling or diving, go hopping from tree to tree at Tree Top Adventure Park (115 Moo1, Ao Bailan, Tambon Koh Chang Tai, Kingampur Koh Chang, Trat, 08-4310-7600. Open daily 9am-5pm. www.treetopadventurepark.com .) Sort of an adult playground, you can climb, jump, swing, play Tarzan & Jane on 30 platforms and relive your childhood all in a half a day. For all you acrophobics, skip the tree jumping and head over to the charming Bangbao village where you can enjoy fresh seafood and a peek at fisherman’s lives and houses on stilts above the ocean. If you’re ready to go a little further, Salak Pet, nestled in its own bay, is even more authentic. As the day comes to an end, stop off at the Bangbao post office and make your friends and family envious from all the postcards you will send them. Other than that, you better come with a stack of good books, lots of sun block, a fully loaded iPod and just kick back! Where to Stay At Koh Chang Sea Hut (Tambon Koh Chang Tai, Ampur Koh Chang, 02-743-9046, 08-1285-0570), you can literally jump from your bungalow into the sea as the huts are built over the seawater. When it comes to luxury, the newcomer Dusit Princess Koh Chang (111/1 Moo1, Tambon Koh Chang Tai, Ampur Koh Chang, Trat, 039-558-055/-8. www.dusit.com ) is on the top of the list. A total of 96 rooms are equipped with quality in-room facilities like LCD TV and LAN internet. Nisa Cabana Koh Chang (113 Moo 1, Tambon Koh Chang Tai, Ampur Koh Chang, Trat, 039-558-161. www.nisacabanakohchang.com ) offers 42 rooms in a tropical garden atmosphere. Prices start at USD$110 for a garden view villa but can climb up to USD$216 during peak season or the new year holiday. Ramayana Koh Chang Resort (Klong Prao Beach, Koh Chang, Trat, 039-511-033, www.ramayanakochang.com ) has 64 rooms divided into three types: Hanuman (deluxe), Ravana (junior suite) and Rama (family suite). Where to Eat Ruan Thai restaurant (08-9833-517, 08-7999-1662. www.ruanthaiseafood.com ) is the first restaurant in Bangbao. Recommended dishes are kung chae naam pla (shrimp in fish sauce) and tom yam with seafood, of course. Prices range from USD$3.20-USD$7.80 per dish. The Bay (08-1773-4680, 08-1854-8250), with its bright orange crab sign at its door, bamboo table sets and soft lighting, looks more like a bar than a restaurant. Order from its Thai seafood menu and you’ll see this is no pub: shrimp with tamarind sauce, Pla Lui Koh and steamed fish in soy sauce. Best Dives Lonely Planet Thailand recommends top dive spots where beautiful reefs and underwater world await. Hin Luk Bat and Hin Lap , rocky, coral-encruseted seamounts with depths of around 18 to 20 meters, are havens for schooling fish. Both Hin Phrai Nam and Hin Gadeng (between Koh Wai and Koh Rang) are formed by spectacular rock pinnacles and have coral visible to around 28 meters. But by far the best diving is around Koh Rang . Protected from fishing by its marine park status, this place has some of the most pristine coral in Thailand. In the area, Ko Yak and Ko Laun are both shallow dives perfect for beginners and advance divers. Hin Kuak Maa (also known as Three Finger Reef) is home to a coral-encrusted wall sloping from 2 to 14 meters and attracting swarms of marine life.