New China Chic
Fine Chinese dining is no longer necessarily about tacky gold decor, writes Justice Lai
Water Margin
Shop 1205, 12/F, Times Square, Causeway Bay, 3102-0088
The decor: This Aqua outlet in Times Square is described by Calvin Yeung as ”crouching tiger meets hidden dragon,” with red lanterns, woodcarvings, old painting tables and plenty of sheer silk to set the vibe. The “ripple room” is the main feature – a restaurant-within-a-restaurant that is partitioned off with wooden doors and silk.
The food: Water Margin features Northern Chinese cuisine. It is currently featuring a “Battle of Dragon” menu – at $628 for two people, you get two starters, three main courses, a dessert drink and two new cocktails prepared by the group’s star bartender Jackie Ho.
Great for: Shoppers that want to escape the buzz of Causeway Bay for a thematic dining experience.
Yun Fu
Basement, 43-55 Wyndham St., Central, 2116-8855
The decor: No one does Asian interiors better than Calvin Yeung. The Aqua restaurateur built his empire around chic Chinese and his latest offering, Yun Fu, is no exception. Taking inspiration from indigenous Northern Chinese and Tibetan tribes, patrons walk though the traditional oak doors into the darkly ambient underground dining area. There is a circular bar just before you get to the restaurant – supposedly representing unity and infinity - but what caught our eye was the dramatic red lighting scheme and old Chinese movies projected onto the wall, making dining here a theatrical experience.
The food: Indigenous Chinese dishes they say, but what exactly does that mean? Well, brace yourself for wok-fried assorted organs with spring onion, braised frog legs and the like. If that’s not your cup of tea, try the red jellyfish head marinated with mint juice, and yellow croaker fish fillet wrapped with tofu.
Great for: Freaky recipes (though there are some safe bets), and some seriously good Chinese wine cocktails.
TMSK
Shop 2103-04, Elements, Kowloon Station, 2204-3268
The decor: The atelier of Chinese glassware Liuligongfang opened this outlet, so you can naturally expect a lot of glass in the decor. The ceiling itself is amazing - there’s a giant glass gold-painted peony hanging from it, and Each piece of cutlery is handmade by the atelier.
The food: Chinese food with a Western twist, but don’t miss the traditional dishes like chicken soup with pear and dried scallop, cooked for 10 hours to extract the essence.
Great for: A super-deluxe Chinese meal – or just go to check out the intricate tableware.