We’re not going to say Chinese wine (or jiu in Putonghua) is the new Krug vintage. But the liquors from our dear motherland - once seen as grandpa’s favorite tipple – are back. Some red-hot restaurants and bars now serve Chinese wine; some even make cocktails out of it. It’s not uncommon to see a bunch of young people going to dinner and instead of four bottles of shiraz, ordering a $1,000 bottle of baijiu.
But what is Chinese wine really and how do you appreciate it? No, your wine connoisseur's degree is not going to be of much help here. Here's a quick guide.
The categories - the rouge, the blanc and the liquor?
Chinese wine is also separated into two types based on its color. There are the white wines - typically called baijiu or shaojiu (burning liquor) - which are mostly clear distilled liquor with a high alcohol content (at least 40 percent); and the yellow wines, huangjiu, which are fermented and are darker colored with an alcohol level of less than 20 percent.
Baijiu
This is a common picture in Hong Kong - old people drinking their baijiu while eating. In fact, the old generation used to drink baijiu because they believed the high alcohol content helped kill the germs. Whether or not they just wanted a tipsy afternoon is another story. Nowadays, baijiu is a staple at business meals in northern China. Many people – Chinese and foreigners alike – often collapse onto the banquet table because the mainland businessmen just won’t stop pouring.
Huangjiu
Meanwhile, huangjiu is far milder and in fact tastes better, in the sense that the wine is pretty much the essence of the foodstuff used for fermentation. And because many different ingredients can be used for fermentation - for example, plum, ox testicles or even mice – huangjiu are often considered medicinal tonics.
Enough lecturing. Here we pick six Chinese wines to suit everyone’s tastes.
Six Tastes of Wine
($560, Ming Ya Fe)
Alcohol level: 53 percent
Made from: Distilled from wheat, sorghum and pure river water in Guizhou province. It’s one aromatic liquor.
What’s special about it? One reason - this is the “national wine.” It gained its international recognition when Mao Zedong served it to Richard Nixon during his landmark visit to China.
Best with: Barbecue and crabs – the strong aroma of moutai can cover the latter’s slightly unpleasant fishy smell.
($12.9, Park’n Shop)
Alcohol level: 45 percent
Made from: Distilled with sugar and green bamboo leaves.
What’s special about it? Immortalized (but ridiculed) by an old advert, this baijiu is as Chinese as it gets – wine from bamboo leaves? The result is a fine, refreshing baijiu despite its high alcohol content.
Best with: Hong Kong cuisine – and your expatriate boss.
($1,088, Yun Fu)
Alcohol level: 17 percent
Made from: This particular type of huangjiu is fermented with glutinous rice and wheat in Zhejiang province.
What’s special about it? The age of the thing. Having been fermented for 20 years, the expensive hua tiao is guaranteed to be rich and aromatic.
Best with: Yellow wine is great for enhancing the flavors of a Chinese meal. Hua tiao is also good for making drunken chicken, but we strongly advise you not use a $1,088 bottle to do so.
($43.9, Wellcome)
Alcohol level: 54 percent
Made from: Distilled with rose petals, rock sugar and sorghum wine.
What’s special about it? We love the bottle and the wine has a gorgeously subtle rose aroma. This refreshing baijiu is also a good base for cocktails.
Best with: Preserved meat and sausages – how unromantic.
