Spaghetti West
Pavan Shamdasani and Karen Ko explore the fusion restaurants of yesteryear.

All this talk of the handover has got us nostalgic for the good ol’ days. No, not just 10 years ago (not much has changed since then, if you haven’t been keeping up), but the 80s, 70s and 60s, when baked spaghetti, sizzling steaks and Portuguese-style everything were staples on any menu. And a classy restaurant meant cheese on top.
ORCHID RESTAURANT
G/F, 6-8 Tin Lok Lane, Wan Chai, 2572-2806
Opened for more than 20 years, the Orchid is your classic retro restaurant – dimly lit with an open-window kitchen, tiny booths that fit four if you squeeze, and Christmas lights all year round. While a recent widescreen TV has taken away from its classic vibe and numerous mainlander customers have inspired a nice selection of Chinese items, they still keep it real with a wide variety of wholesome dishes. The Portuguese-style chicken is a favorite among regulars, while their variety of curries has Asian enthusiasts coming by the droves. Other timeless dishes include the classic soup and sandwich combo, served with a hot Coca-Cola. Go with someone special and share a baked soufflé or the flaming Baked Alaska.
QUEEN’S CAFÉ
Shop D, G/F, 8 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 2576-2658
Shop 18, Festival Walk, Kowloon Tong, 2265-8288
Our 50-year staple of Russian cuisine, Queen’s prides itself on its traditional interiors – the faux-aristocratic tables with leather-lined chairs, dishes proudly encased in cabinets and a classic dark wood bar. Start off with those tiny soft bread rolls and order their famed borscht, still only $39. Make sure you order the rarely found shashlik (juicy beef fillet) and try one of their Hong Kong-inspired beverages on a drink menu that has everything from hot lemon Coke to Ovaltine and Horlicks. They recently expanded with a second restaurant at Festival Walk.
TAI PING KOON
60 Stanley St., Central, 2899-2780
6 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2576-9161
40 Granville Rd., Tsim Shai Tsui, 2721-3559
19-21 Mau Lam St., Yau Ma Tei, 2384-3385