Island Hopping
Forget Phuket. There’s plenty of better islands in Asia, or just nearby. Conde Nast Traveler recently voted Hong Kong Island the Best Island in the World. Now, we’re not about to doubt the awesomeness of our favorite city—but c’mon. Really? So in honor of our new status, we’ve decided to search far and wide for islands that we believe are equally worth this lofty accolade.
The Gili Islands - Indonesia
The Gili Islands are a seriously chilled-out Bali alternative, writes Justin Gardner.
When you step off the boat onto Gili Trawangan and are offered a pony trap (cidomo) to take you to your villa, it’s hard not to laugh. But this inspired banning of all forms of motorised transport has set the tone not only for the islands’ development over the last 25 years but also for what you can expect from your visit. The single-storey, Balinese-bungalow type constructions, coupled with the swaying palm trees, white-sand beaches and cyan-blue waters are what gives the three Gili Islands their character.
On Gili Trawangan, even the more active pursuits have an undeniably relaxed air. Pay US$2 per day to hire a mask, snorkel and flippers from one of the local beachside shacks and you can drift down the east side of the island with a pleasant current doing all the work as hundreds of different species of fish and numerous turtles frolic curiously around you. Blue Marlin (www.bluemarlindive.com), Manta Dive (www.manta-dive.com) and many other reputable dive-shops offer diving, all safe and at fairly standardized prices. With no dive site more than 15 minutes from Trawangan’s main beach, drifting to and from each site in a relaxing, local long-boat and enjoying the beach and a cold drink in between dives is a very pleasant way to experience the vast array of marine life the Gilis have to offer. If a little more action is what you want then the eight-kilometer jog (or cycle—a little patience and a good sense of humor is required on the sandy parts) around the Island can be a good way to take in the sights.
At night, Gili Trawangan has plenty to offer. Just walking past Scallywags’ and The Beach House’s nightly fresh seafood BBQ is enough to make the mouth water. Ice-strewn trestle tables piled high with notably fresh fish at fairly affordable prices make for a delicious dinner. And afterwards, music for all tastes blares from the many bars, none of which are shy about advertising their wares on chalkboards or with vocal shouts from the staff. Choose your poison, and then stay for one—or more. The partying goes on until well into the early hours of the morning.
Gili Meno, the smallest of the three islands, is the antithesis of Gili Trawangan. If you want to grow beards, dress in rags and prance around on the shore waving coconut-leaf flags, then Gili Meno may be one of the last getaways where you can convincingly play Robinson Crusoe during the day before returning to the relative luxury of Meno’s ‘four-star Villa Nautilus or more affordably-priced accommodation (Good Heart Bungalows and others) for a well-deserved Bintang beer and pizza.
Gili Air, the second largest but most populous of the three Islands is billed as the “best of both worlds” and the “in-between” island. A day spent on Gili Air and maybe even a night (Coconut Villas is a popular choice) might add some variety during a longer stay in the Gilis.
Singapore Airlines flies to Denpasar, Bali via Singapore on a daily basis. Fares start at $3,780, excluding tax. From there, you can find many fast boat companies that will take you directly to the Gilis. Check www.fastboatsgili.com for schedules.
Important information
When getting to and from the Gilis, do not depend on the arrival and departure times when booking your flights. The laidback island lifestyle makes ferry timetables unpredictable to say the least. Also, be sure to ask your villa whether they have freshwater showers. Every drop has to be shipped to the islands from Lombok, so many will factor fresh water into the price of your accommodation..
Green Island - Taiwan
This volcano island off the southeast coast of Taiwan is a diver’s dream come true, writes Sarah Fung.
Taiwan might not seem like an avid diver’s first port of call, but in fact, diverse marine is life just an hour’s plane ride away in the southeast part of the country. Green Island is a tiny, 16.2 square kilometer volcanic isle just off the southern town of Taitung, seldom visited by non-Taiwanese. While the island is home to a historically significant prison built by the Japanese in 1911 (the local tourism authority strongly urges you pay a visit), what makes it a real gem for us is the spectacular snorkeling and dive sites rich with marine life, relaxing hot springs and excellent seafood. The entire island can be easily navigated by scooter within 30 minutes—or if you’re not much of a biker, a somewhat slower golf cart.
With just one strip of small restaurants and guesthouses, there’s not that much to do if you’re not a fan of the ocean. However, divers and snorkelers will find pristine reefs not yet bleached white by excessive motor oils, as is often found in more widely visited parts of Asia. In addition to a diverse lineup of brightly colored reef fish and corals, you’ll also find stingrays, cuttlefish, and—between January and March—schools of migrating hammerhead sharks. Dive centers are safe, experienced and well equipped, and only advanced divers will be permitted to go looking for hammerheads, owing to the stronger currents where they congregate. That said, novices are extremely well catered for, and the sleepy pace of the island means you can practice your diving in peace. Try www.greenislanddiving.com for English-speaking dive masters.
After a day in the sea, warm up by taking a dip in the island’s hot springs. As owners of one of only three saltwater hot springs in the world, Green Islanders take their bathing very seriously—the pools are immaculately maintained and enjoy magnificent views of the ocean. Once you’re done, cook up some fresh seafood and snacks (which can be bought from nearby hawkers) in the hotter springs close by. At almost boiling point, this is water you don’t want to be dipping your toes into, but a delicious hotpot au natural is the local delicacy. Just make sure to bring a good torch after dark, as there’s no street lighting on this part of the island.
Hongkongers are always making foodie pilgrimages to Taiwan, and you certainly won’t miss out in Green Island, where the seafood is about as fresh as you can get. Restaurant owners will sometimes pluck abalone straight out of the water and cook them up for just a few Hong Kong dollars. Taiwanese classics such as stewed minced pork and eggplant on rice are also present and accounted for, and for an extra holiday touch, shaved ice with red bean and other tasty toppings come served in a gigantic shell.
There are several cheap and cheerful guesthouses, mostly on the main strip, and accommodation is easy to find once you arrive. Jack Hotel (jack.e089.com.tw) is one clean and friendly option, but be sure to check the Green Island Human Rights Culture Park website (gicp.nat.gov.tw) for a directory of hotels and home stays.