Around this time, hundreds of trifolau (professional truffle hunters) with their truffle-sniffing dogs start scouring the forests of Europe and North American seeking the gastronomic gold otherwise known as truffles.
The world’s most expensive truffle was a two pound ten ounce rare White Alba the size of a small handbag; it sold for US$112,000 and was prepared right here at the Ritz Carlton hotel. So who found it? Tradition says pigs were meant for this job since the smell of truffle is so similar to a pig sex pheromone. But since too many pigs would eat the truffles before the hunters could collect them, trifolau have since switched to dogs.
Since we have yet to find a way to domesticate truffles, digging underneath oak trees is still the only way to gather them. Many have tried to cultivate truffles and many have failed due to the still mysterious process of how these clusters of fungi group together to form truffles. Attempts at trufficulture have ended up with products resembling fossilized acorns at best. But recently we have been seeing a cultivated product coming from China and being called a truffle.
It is far from the real thing, but visually, it looks like a truffle and kind of smells like one too. Unfortuantely its taste is bland, and its texture is chewy. Due to its low price, however, Chinese truffles are often exported around the world. Without a microscope, it can be difficult for the untrained buyer to tell a Chinese truffle from the real thing. But a true connoseiur, who is liable to spend upwards of US$1,000 for a pound of pungent Alba truffles, won’t be fooled.
And that’s the other important thing about truffles: their astronomical cost. Every year one prized truffle will emerge and collectors with deep pockets will make a bid to take it home.
Aside from the white varities, black truffles are also popular – they are far less pungent and more refined than their white cousins. They are reminiscent of fresh mushrooms, and their earthy scent fills a room almost instantly. Though the truffle season just kicked off this month, the first batch is usually not as desirable as the ones picked up in the later months.