What a Sapa!

Last February, Sapa witnessed a record snowfall. While many people are worried about global warming, it’s not necessary to travel all the way to Japan or New Zealand to get some cool, fresh air. A part of Lao Cai Province, Sapa sits at the frontier between Vietnam and China and enjoys cool year-round weather with temperatures around freezing in the winter and 29 degrees Celsius in the summer. On our last visit, in early March, the mercury dropped to five degrees. Mornings are charmingly misty and low clouds often linger over the town all day, making the atmosphere dreamy and peaceful.

Sapa, like Thailand’s Pai or Laos’ Vang Vieng, is one of those super-chill destinations for backpackers who want it quiet and “real.” But while Pai or Vang Vieng owe all of their charm to the surrounding nature, Sapa also boasts French-influenced architecture that gives it a spattering of lovely and colorful hillside homes. The town is now fairly developed, with hotels and restaurants mushrooming everywhere, but hilltribes continue to live, farm and make handicrafts in the immediate surroundings. The fields are particularly photogenic in the summer. As for the tribes themselves, there are over 20 of them: Dzao, Black Hmong, Tay, Xa Pho and more.

What to Do

Trekkers can keep busy with daily excursions into the different hilltribe villages. Tracks are now well trodden and walks are quite easy. At this time of year, it’s a real pleasure. The most popular route is to the Cat Cat Cultural Village (only a few bucks to enter), a 90-minute walk. Stunning terraced rice paddies line the narrow path and people usually stop for photos along the way.

Unfortunately, it’s one of the most commercial villages and residents try hard to sell their products. Often in these village-wide gift shops, you can hang out and watch people make handicrafts. Of course, you’re paying tourist prices: the same embroidered bag bought for only USD$2 in Sapa was offered to us in the village for USD$8. On the way there, you can find a small waterfall, the pride of the locals. Lazy bums can even hire a motorcycle taxi in town for USD$2.50. The rider will drive you back, too, of course.

Sin Chai village is where the Dzao people live. It’s a 45-minute walk from town and there’s no entrance fee. Not as popular with tourists, it’s a more authentic village scene, complete with stinky pigs. Cozy up to the locals and they’ll let you into their homes—no electricity and a smoky fire for warmth and cooking. A hundred kilometers from Sapa, Bac Ha’s Sunday Market is a real must-see for its many lovely and colorful handicrafts. Ethnic groups gather there to trade news, meet up and sell their products. It’s a very busy and lively sight.

Go early if you don’t want to face the traffic of vans of tourists. Another option is Ta Phin Village with a short trek to see the daily life of ethnic people. Too lazy to leave town? Hang out at the many cafés, walk around the square where locals put up their stalls offering anything from food to blankets, and browse handmade products sold by hilltribe people. But be warned, a simple peek at their wares will land you an unrelenting hard seller who will hound you all day until you give in. The rest of the usual touristy shopping rules apply, too: walk off, feign a stroke, say you’re bankrupt and be careful with currencies (prices can even get knocked up when you buy several items). Or get used to not paying local prices—news flash: you’re not a local—support the local economy and buy yourself some peace of mind.