Standing in front of Sleeping Beauty Castle on Lantau, having wangled a ticket to Walt Disney Appreciation Day this month, I find myself feeling something unexpected: appreciation for Walt Disney. All the hype and publicity - good and bad - that has accompanied the opening of Hong Kong Disneyland, boils down to one little question. Is it fun? Yes, it is. Much has been made of its size - 126 hectares - but with only a limited number of invited guests on June 12, and therefore no queues for the rides, it doesn’t seem unmanageably large. In fact, it seems quite small. After two hours I had made it through the magic and was facing the familiar hills of Lantau. The resort is split into four lands: Main Street USA, Tomorrowland, Adventureland and Fantasyland. (There are also two hotels, Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel and Disney's Hollywood Hotel.) Rumors have been rampant that, with less than three months remaining before the grand opening on September 12, the park won't be entirely operational by opening day. However, the Walt Disney "Imagineers" claim everything is right on schedule and the general public will have full access to all rides and facilities when the magical kingdom opens its doors. From what I saw, everything looked clean and completed, except Tomorrowland, with its mysterious "Autopia" ride still in the works. But the landscape immediately outside the park could use some work - it looks like a vandalized city, more “Mad Max” than “Snow White.” No doubt the Imagineers will be sprinkling a little pixie dust outside the gates so the whole place won't look so rushed. What the park accomplishes effectively, as all Disneylands manage to do, is to tap into the wonder of childhood, and make us all feel like kids again. Main Street USA is a miniature replica of the California Disneyland's version, and it's along this street that the children meet the various Disney characters while their parents shell out at the souvenir shops. Tomorrowland's Space Mountain, a variation of Disney's most famous ride, is a rollercoaster that operates in pitch black and is designed to approximate an outer-space atmosphere. Sadly, ours feels shorter, slower and less steep than the California version. But perhaps that’s my memory playing tricks on me. Or perhaps it's indicative of the decreased emphasis on rides and the increased emphasis on the brand and characters in general. The "Buzz Lightyear Astro Blasters," for example, rely heavily on “Toy Story” branding - although it’s also a blast to defend the universe from the evil Emperor Zurg by shooting laser cannons while spinning wildly in your space cruiser. And don’t miss "Mickey's PhilarMagic" in Fantasyland. For this famous 3-D show, the audience sits in an auditorium, dons hi-tech 3-D specs and watches holographic Disney characters bound around and right off the screen. Hong Kong's version incorporates several new features that ratchet up the spectacle, such as food-scented air freshener. It’s silly, but undeniably spectacular. In Adventureland, the Jungle River Cruise invites you to journey through Tarzan’s jungle among realistically simulated wildlife. Despite their apparent talent for playing the panpipes, you’ll swear the gorillas are real. When it all gets to be too much, hop aboard the Hong Kong Disneyland Train, either at the main gate or the far end of the park, for a tour of the whole site. The lush Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel with 400 rooms and the smaller Disney's Hollywood Hotel are also worth visiting. Both hotels offer a diverse array of facilities, including both indoor and outdoor pools, spas, an enchanted garden maze and sunset terraces. From the outside, they’re as beautiful as any five-star hotel, but the rooms are a little smaller than I expected. The amenities, however, offer full-on luxury. Disneylands worldwide place great emphasis on friendly and hospitable service, and Hong Kong’s Disney team are no exception. From the hoteliers to the guy in the Donald Duck suit, they were in character and right on cue, brimming with enthusiasm. Disney has clearly taken gigantic steps on the path to become one of Hong Kong's main tourist attractions. My bet is kids will love it - and so will most grown-ups. There are many hurdles to jump before we have a comprehensive park with the allure to attract return overseas visitors. At the moment, it can be done in a day - although once the place is packed with tourists and hour-long queues, that may not be the case.