Dai Pai Gone?

The dai pai dong is a dying breed. A mainstay of the Hong Kong dining scene for the past century or more, the government is phasing out these small, streetside eateries. No new dai pai dong licenses have been issued since 1970, and the existing fixed-space licenses can only be passed on to the hawker's spouse. Which is why when Wong Kwong-hing died on May 6, it should have spelled the end for his 80-year-old dai pai dong, the Man Yuen noodle stall on Elgin Street. But the place is so popular that, at press time, more than 2,660 taxi drivers had signed a petition to urge the government to allow it to continue operating. It’s not the only place that may not be around for much longer. We visited some of Central's oldest dai pai dongs - enjoy them while you can.

Chan Sze Kee

This 50-year-old dai pai dong is relatively spacious. It serves different food at lunch and dinner. During the day, its MSG-free wonton noodles ($14) are a favorite with Central workers. At night couples come for traditional cuisine, such as the house specialty fresh steamed fish portions with preserved vegetable ($38). Mon-Sun 11am-3:30pm, 5:30pm-10:30pm.

Lan Fong Yuen

More than half-a-century old, Lan Fong Yuen is known for its Hong Kong-style milk tea (hot $11, cold $13). Ten years ago, it opened an indoor restaurant next to the original food stall - try the not-to-be-missed chicken lo mein with spring onion sauce ($32). Open Mon-Sat 7am-6pm, closed on Sun.

Man Yuen Noodle Stall

This little stall on Elgin Street became the focus of an outcry when it was announced it would have to close, following the death of license-holder Wong Kwong-hing. It attracts overseas and mainland tourists, who chow down happily next to tables full of locals, including people from the neighborhood who eat there almost every day, and a legion of faithful taxi drivers. You can mix and match dishes such as the famous wonton and cow belly at $20. Open daily noon-12:30am.

Sing Heung Yuen