Street-Side Shenzhen

Shenzhen has experienced an explosion in mid- to high-end restaurants specializing in international cuisines, including French, Italian, Thai, Indian, Russian and pretty much everything in between. But you didn't come to China for foie gras, did you? We turned our backs on the big-name restaurants and hit the streets for some simple, amazingly cheap and often surprisingly good street fare.

Walking Street, aka DonGmai Beilu, Eastern District

Rice balls

At the top of this busy street of shoppers, electronic merchants, government buildings, schools and small shops is a tiny but very friendly little old lady who sells pork glutinous-rice ball infused with rich, salty bone stock. With nothing but a steam tray and a few bags of cooked rice, pork, sauce and little bags to hold the rice balls, she presses these little nuggets into shape for just US$0.25 each.

Verdict: Amazing. I had few expectations until I bit into the rice ball, then... magic. I was totally taken aback by how rich and delicious this little wonder managed to be. Get more than one.

Sunny Seeds

Just down the street a young lady in a big smiley shirt to match the big smile on her face sells toasted sunflower seeds for US$0.80 a kilo. She toasts the seeds in a huge wok over a makeshift metal cooking tray standing on a base of stray bricks.

Verdict: Compared with the first stall, US$1 for a big bag or US$0.80 for a small one seemed a touch pricey, but we sprung for a bag anyway. Fresh and flavored with a touch of salt, either bag will easily last you all day. Spitting out the seeds is more local sport than legal offense.

Dumpling stall

Behind the school on Cuizhu Nanlu St., near Cuiahu Park, a friendly couple serves up nothing but dumplings and boiled eggs, but still manages to attract a lively crowd at teatime. We joined them and tried two varieties of xiao long bao dumplings, one with pork filling and one with mutton, two eggs and took a seat at a plastic table and chairs along with a gang of locals.