Break for the Border
Hong Kong’s garish mainland twin is cheap, cheerful and packed with distractions. Here are our favorite things to do.
1. Visit Windows on the World
For our money this is one of the coolest and kitschiest places in the city. Feel like visiting the Eiffel Tower? A 108-meter replica is here. So are copies of Egypt's Great Pyramids, the Grand Canyon, the Taj Majal and Stonehenge, to name a few. In total, 100 landmark attractions from 43 countries can be found within this 480,000-square-meter park. There's also an indoor ski hill, a log flume, beer halls, restaurants and stores. Get around by riding the monorail or renting a golf cart. Where else can you say you visited the White House, the Leaning Tower of Pisa and watch a volcano erupt all in one day?
Admission is US$18 during the day, and US$5 after 7:30pm, with concessions for the elderly. Hours 9am-10:30pm. Reach it on the metro.
2. Foot massage
After a long day trolling around the city, this is a welcome pleasure - and cheap at just US$5 an hour for a regular massage, or US$9 for the "imperial" version. Your feet are soaked in warm water treated with a special aromatic solution, before the massage itself, which involves plenty of rubbing, jabbing and pressing. The idea is to work certain pressure points on the foot that relate to various organs and parts of the body, detecting and apparently treating problem areas. And after you're thoroughly relaxed, give your toes a once-over with a pedicure for just US$3. Yuenhe Nanla, Station East, Lo Wu, 8233-4882.
3. Duty-free liquor
This one's a cinch. There is a mega duty-free store on the Hong Kong side of the border crossing at Lo Wu. There, one can find baked goods, perfume, cigars and cigarettes, and of course, the ever-present cognac. Just before you reach Shenzhen customs, you run a gauntlet of stores, which, for our money, are the best places to stock up on name-brand vodka, whisky and even select French wines and brandies. Prices vary (some are as low as US$16), so it pays to shop around. One word of advice: You might want to wait for your return trip or you'll have to lug all that booze around with you. And remember you can't bring duty free booze or smokes back into Hong Kong if you're out of town for less than 24 hours.
4. Take the metro
A new and practical addition to Shenzhen's transport system is the metro network, which opened in December. Eventually it will run from Lo Wu to Shekou, but for now only the first phase is complete. It comprises 20 stations on two lines: Line 1 runs east-west from Lo Wu to the Windows on the World, and the initial section of Line 4 runs north-south from Huang Gang Boundary Control Point to Shaoniangong.
5. Play golf at Mission Hills
6. Go to a hot springs
A trip to Shenzhen is hardly relaxing, but you can get away from it all at Yulu Hot Springs at the Shiyan Holiday Village. With 300 guest rooms, Shiyan's Spanish-style simplicity is designed to let the natural beauty of the area shine. At a pleasant 67 degrees Celsius, the spring is rich in sulfides, iodine and boron, believed to help relieve rheumatism, fatigue and certain skin conditions. And when you've had enough of the water, try tennis, riding, boating or skating. Shiyan Town is in Bao'an District, less than 90 minutes from Shenzhen on bus no.523. Tel: +86-755 776-0341
7. Party at Class Club
8. Zoological Gardens
The Shenzhen Zoological Garden is the first open zoo in China, with 300 species of animals in a vast forest. Highlights include pandas, white tigers, elephants, orangutans and the crocodile pond. Open daily 8:30am-6:30pm. East of Xili Lake, Nanshan, 2662 2888-1808
9. Buy funky chopsticks
10. Get your shoes repaired on the street
In East Shenzhen, at the top of Donmai Beilu ("Walking Street") near the government building, roving shoe repair and shoeshine workers can fix your shoes while you wait for just a few dollars. The finishing touch is a blast with a blowtorch to increase the shine. Tip: take your shoes off first.
10. Buy DVDs
Let’s face it: for many, one of the big draws of coming to Shenzhen is to buy DVDs of dubious origin. They’re often of questionable quality, but due to their cheap price, customers just keep coming back for more. If you’re into that sort of thing, great selections of films, TV series and even music CDs can be found near the Dongmen MTR exit. But once you’ve had your fill, the next question is whether you can get it all past customs. The choice is yours.
11. Drink Eight Treasure tea
Hundreds of years ago the way to drink tea was to place eight ingredients into a cup and cover with boiling water poured from an incredibly long-spouted teapot wielded by teenage boys. These days, Eight Treasure tea is a mildly sweet and colourful drink produced by a company called Ten Fu, and includes chrysanthemums, green tea, jujube, Chinese wolfberries, dragoneye fruit, rock sugar, raisins and tremella. It's said to be good for a whole host of ailments from heart palpitations to hypoglycemia. Try it at Opera House Restaurant, 138 Guoxing Building, Xuefu Rd., Nanshan, Shenzhen, +86-755 2645-3911.
12. Vogue at Why Not?
Why Not? is Shenzhen's answer to Propaganda (minus the entrance fee), and the best gay club in town. It's jumping from 11pm till 4am. Expect to get jabbed by pointy elbows as the locals shove their way through the dance floor. 3/F, 17 Jinhua Rd., Luohu District, 86-755-8236-6823(next to MixC Mall).
13. Have a massage...
Massage parlors may be a tad sleazy in Shenzhen, but for US$15, who cares? There are hundreds around town, but the safest - and more expensive - can be found in five-star hotels. Elsewhere, try Queen's Spa, the latest luxurious spa in downtown Shenzhen on Xiangxi Road.
14. ...with a happy ending
In addition to luxury spas, there are other down and dirty places to go and get a massage. Some of these parlours will even include an offer of further services, often described as an “oil massage.” It’s up to you to negotiate what your bottom line is for the massage you desire. For such services, here are two you might try: Straight: Kangle, 2/F, 2116 Hung Gui Rd., Lo Wu, +86-755 8247-4913. Gay: Golden Chariot Sauna, 5/F, 3002 Dong Men South Rd., +86-755 8238-8265.
16. Sit back and enjoy the view
Shenzhen may not have our beautiful harbor, but from the floor-to-ceiling windows of the 360 Bar, Restaurant and Lounge atop the Shangri-la hotel the skyline is a sight for sore eyes. Go for an ultra-chic dinner, or a sundowner. East Side, Railway Station, 1002 Jianshe Rd., Shenzhen, +86-755-8233-0888
15. Pamper yourself at a spa
Shenzhen's multitude of day spas offer everything from a manicure to an earpick, and all at bargain prices. For the full treatment - spa, sauna, full-body massage, reflexology and facial - expect to pay about US$46. Here are three to choose from: Lan Gui Fang Spa, 11 Guihua Rd., Futian, +86-755 8347-3329. Gen Gen Reflexology, Section C, Shop 3028, Lowu Commercial City Mall. Jian Fu Mei Massage Centre, Section D/H, shop 4028, Lowu Commercial City Mall.
17. Sex shops
Repress a society for 20 years and what do you get? A thriving sex shop scene. Centered in the Lowu area, these stores are legitimate and assistants are happy to give you advice. You'll find fun souvenirs at half the price of Hong Kong. As for quality control, we'd recommend you don't put anything, er, inside your body.
18. Go to Wal-Mart
However you feel about globalism, it's worth visiting one of the eight Wal-Marts around the city, including the first outlet in China. The US chain store is China's eighth-largest trading partner, ahead of entire countries such as Russia and Germany. But just what is that moving in the tanks near the checkout?
19. Shenzhen LKF
Shenzhen likes to name places after locations in Hong Kong (e.g., Wan Chai Plaza), which is a useful shorthand for people from this city. So we knew what to expect of Lan Kwai Fong in Shekou. Located near the beach and is comprised mostly of old-style British pubs and girly bars, although a beautiful new nightclub has opened on the end of the street, with a bar, patio, dance floor and loyal customers. It's name? SoHo. 1 Industry Rd., Shekou, next to the HaiTao Hotel.
20. Get your wardrobe copied...
Shenzhen's tailors can create or copy any design quickly and cheaply in the fabric of your choice. Count on making two visits, the first to be measured and the second to pick up your finished garment. Here are a few suggestions. Adah, Section C, shop 5075, Lowu Commercial City Mall, +86-755 9832-0983. Cai Vin, Section C, shop 5049, Lowu Commercial City Mall, +86-755 8243-5489. Sally, Section C, shop 5133, Lowu Commercial City Mall, +86-755 1410-6365. Alion, Section B, shop 5127B, Lowu Commercial City Mall, +86-755 3752-3576.
21. ...and your curtains made
There are dozens of curtain makers in Shenzhen who'll run up a set in a day. Choose from the styles displayed in the shop or design your own. All curtain shops have fabric swatch books, or bring your material with you. In Lowu Commercial City try these three shops: shop 1039-1042, 1/F, Section C; shop 3066, 3F, Section D; shop 5123, 5F, Section B.
22. Have a coffee in Shekou
Shekou is fast turning into Shenzhen's tourist destination. It's touristy and Western-friendly, with a Starbucks and several overpriced, high-concept restaurants. It's a fun place to meet long-term expat residents and boasts easy access to theme parks such as Seaworld Plaza and Happy Valley. And it's just a 50-minute ferry ride from Hong Kong.
23. Camp at the Fairy Lake Botanical Gardens
This huge and rambling wooded park features scattered pagodas, pavilions and temples, as well as China's premier botanical garden. The enchantingly named Fairy Lake Botanical Garden is home to the country's largest collection of plants and has been hailed internationally as a model of protection. You can camp overnight, and be woken by ethereal early-morning bells and chanting from the picturesque Hongfa Temple, situated by the lake among rippling trees and tranquil reflections. Situated about a half-hour drive from the border, and popular with the locals, your taxi driver should know exactly where to find it.
24. Buy sports shoes
Why spend hundreds, or even thousands, of dollars on sneakers when you can pick up something similar over the border? You might worry about authenticity or quality, but fashion is a frivolous thing, and your US$15 sneakers will shine for a few months - after that they'll be so last season, darling.
25. Have a mole removed
They say you can boost your fortune by removing a facial mole or two, and wouldn't you know it, there are special mole removal salons in Shenzhen. Look for them in small shops in the main shopping area, Dong Men.
26. Get a "designer" souvenir
Amuse your friends with a trashy Louise Bluitton or Parda souvenir. The "designer" goods in Lowu Commercial City come in two categories, "A" and "AA," which usually cost 50 percent more. But no matter what you pay, copies are just plain tacky and fit for nothing but the bin after a couple of outings.
27. Minsk World
War! Huh! What is it good for? Well, according Minsk World's brochures, decommissioned Soviet killing machines offer an ideal "patriotic backdrop" for family outings and sweetheart photos. The Minsk is China's first aircraft carrier bought as scrap from the Russians and apparent proof of "China upping military might." Other attractions include a flight deck floor show, tank rides, a "Happy Family" shooting and hand grenade-tossing gallery and a collection of model nuclear weapons - the perfect prop for a picture of the missus. Shatoujiao, Yantian, +86-755 2535-5333. Open 10:30am-3:30pm. Bus Routes 202 & 205 (from border)
28. Bride Spotting on Dameisha Beach
Dameisha is the beach resort where the city's burgeoning middle class goes to play. Just 30 kilometers from Lo Wu, it's a surprisingly pastoral scene of clean water, green mountains and a growing cluster of slightly tacky seaside hotels. Public beach sculptures and unusual rock formations have helped turn it into a favorite destination for wedding pictures. Reasonable hotels include the four-star Shenzhen La Waterfront, +86-755 2506-1688. Yantian District, 50 minutes from Lo Wu by taxi.
29. Visit Li Chee Park
Just when you thought Shenzhen was all brash soulless glitz, a stroll through the winding pathways of Li Chee Park reconnects you to traditional China. Artists, poets, musicians and chess players gather under the verdant boughs of the park's 600-plus lychee trees to play and improvise. Sunday afternoons are a kind of lo-fi "American Idol" as everyone from kids to great-grannies turn out to dance and sing together. Photographers will max out their memory cards. Honglingzhong Rd. 1001, Futian.
30. Visit Shenzhen Sea World
It has a bizarre sea-themed stage show - on land. Call +86-755 2506-2986.
31. Get soaked
32. Go bowling
Bowling in the city is cheap, roughshod and fun. "Sammy Bowling Paradise" is 16 yuan a frame, 10 yuan a beer and features butterfingers pinsetters that hardly ever manage to reset all the pins. Ping-pong tables are an added bonus. Sammy Bowling Paradise, 3/F, Shen Yuen Building, Fuciang Rd., Futian, +86-755 8387-3363.
33. Flirt at a factory
34. House of wax
For 30 bucks, go to the top of Da Wan Building where there are waxworks of Deng Xiaoping and Margaret Thatcher, as well as a great view back home.
35. Go home
If you need to make a quick break, go directly to the KCR. The bus from Huanggang (west of Lo Wu) may require a wait, and the ferry schedule from Shekhou is not reliable. KCR, 2688-1333. Macau Ferry Terminal (ferry to Shekou), 2547-5265. Shekou Ferry Terminal, 2669-1213. China Travel Services (CTS) for buses to Wan Chai, 2789-5401.