When we landed in sunny Macau, we had only one thing on our minds—food. We had already talked about the game plan on the ferry over. That is, how to eat our way across Macau in a single day. Our first stop was a super-secret dai pai dong all the way out in Ilha Verde at the northern part of the Macau Peninsula. Hidden in a nondescript alley by a local primary school and tucked beneath a cluster of trees with nothing but a small part of its green canopy peeking through, you’d think Liu Kei didn’t want to be found. But the really out-of-the-way location seems to be no obstacle for the eatery’s many fans; an endless stream of mopeds turn into the cobblestone parking lot and even in the sweltering heat, the mostly outdoor Liu Kei is packed with diners during lunch hours. But why take the long and winding road to get to this place? Because the food really is worth the pilgrimage. Its “open kitchen” does a mean pork bun—the bread roll is toasted to crispy perfection on the outside and sandwiches a hefty piece of juicy, near-fluffy pork. The curry chicken bun and the soupless lo mein also looked enticing but, not wanting to stuff ourselves already at our first pit stop, we got on the next bus back towards the city center. For a post-pork bun dessert, we headed over to Pastelaria Pun Veng Kei for Macau’s popular golden coin biscuits. A huge crowd had already gathered outside the shop, waiting patiently for the owner, Pun, to churn out a fresh box of the sweet golden discs. The bakery uses only natural ingredients, and unlike most other places that do this Macanese snack, Pun Veng Kei uses salted egg yolk in their batter instead of regular egg and the resulting biscuit is wonderfully crispy and fragrant. Just as we were about to grab a box to go, we were told that they had sold out for the day. Apparently, someone had placed a large order in the morning. But we weren’t about to let this person’s obnoxious coin biscuit hogging get in the way of our one-day-only Macau eat-fest. We stayed outside the store and pleaded with (i.e. pestered) the owners until they finally relented and agreed to sell us a box. The things we do for our jobs and stomach. With the box of coin biscuits under one arm, we happily skipped to our next food target—the legendary mobile street cart, Ming Kei . This street vendor sells a whole range of skewers, such as fish balls, sausages and tofu, but it’s the cow offal that’s the main draw. Crowds hover around the cart as the owner cuts up bits and pieces of every sort then skewers them at lightning speed and flavors the whole thing with a quick dash of delicious garlic sauce. We ordered the combination beef offal skewer, which the cart lady threw into a small brown paper baggie for us. We downed the whole thing right there on the spot, stomach, intestines, kidney and all. Glamorous. But not quite satisfied with just one single skewer of innards, we moved onto our next destination for a quick fix of brain food. Toung King restaurant on Rotunda da Carlos Da Maia wins the uber-specific honor of being the only pig’s brain noodle specialist in Macau and Hong Kong. The tiny, dingy eatery has been scooping up swine minds for 35 years now. Excited to finally eat at a place where the name didn’t end in “Kei,” we went all out and ordered the signature pig’s brain and offal rice noodles. The MOP$19 bowl of noodles was absolutely fantastic and was chock full of mixed pig parts. The spicy and sour pickled vegetables with hot sauce is a must and pairs beautifully with the innards. It also complements the mild flavored, melt-in-your-mouth soft pig’s brain. Toung King is definitely worth a visit. But if you find pig’s brain a little hard to swallow, just think of it as liver-flavored silken tofu. Or, on second thought... don’t. To reward ourselves for finishing almost a whole bowl of brain noodles, we trekked over to Lai Kei —Macau’s famous old-school ice cream joint which has been open for over 70 years. “We’ve been open so long, our ice cream prices have gone from two cents to six dollars,” says Ms. Kong, the third-generation manager of Lai Kei. We chomped down on their honeydew melon, coconut, and chocolate ice cream sandwich while perusing the little cabinet of antique curios, including an old bronze ice cream scoop and a copy of Lai Kei’s first menu. Nostalgia is the keyword at Lai Kei and the packaging for their ice cream cups and tri-flavored wafer sandwiches remain charmingly retro with their iconic logo of a girl with braids stamped on them. “This is a place of memories for many people—especially young couples who come here on dates,” says Kong as she gestures to a couple sharing a sundae. “Sometimes married couples come back years later with their kids, pointing out to their children the very booth they used to sit at when they were young.” Near-stuffed, we made one final food stop at the alley by the Wing Lok Cinema , Macau’s oldest still-standing movie theater. This street used to be packed with vendors selling all sorts of street food every night, but with less people going to the movies and more vendors moving indoors, all that’s left of this side street is a few fold-up tables and two still loyal street vendors. The mobile cart right by the theater sells only two things—small imitation shark’s fin soup with chicken and large imitation shark’s fin soup with chicken. Simple? Yes. Good? Very. This vendor opens every night at 7pm and draws in customers until the wee hours of the morning. We opted to sit on the wooden stools around the cart to slurp down our bowl of the thick, deliciously seasoned soup but most of the clientele come for takeaway orders. In fact, the cart even doubles as a “drive-by” station with people shouting orders from their car windows and making a quick circle around the block before driving by again to pick up their dishes. Our stomachs were finally reaching their limits and with the last slurp of soup, we ended our day-long Macau eating extravaganza and made our way back to our own lovely city.