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China Crawl

Think you know Chinese food? Think again. We’ll show you the best of the motherland’s diverse cuisine, right here in your hometown.

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Fujian
 

Besides sacha sauce and shrimp paste, Fujian cuisine is all about the little things, says Mrs. Lok, a Xiamen native and owner of the humble-but-highly-popular Xiamen Fengwei in To Kwa Wan (just in case you were wondering: Xiamen is a coastal city right on the southeastern tip of Fujian and an especially popular inspiration for Hong Kong diners). Mrs. Lok set up her neighborhood shop after settling in Hong Kong in 1990, and hasn’t looked back. Snacks and tidbits are key components of Fujian food culture, and here you will find rolls, balls and miniature dumplings alongside a menu of fried rice and noodles, plus soups and noodles in broth. Authentic Xiamen-style fried noodles and rice are also different from the tangy so-called “Xiamen” rice and noodles you’ll find at your local diner. The real thing is soy sauce based and has no trace of tanginess at all, Mrs. Lok says. True Fujian-style stir-fries also add dried shrimps and vegetables in the mix, she explains. We absolutely love the dishes Xiamen Fengwei has on offer, and especially recommend their delectably flaky deep fried taro balls stuffed with leek and pork. Their five-spices beancurd rolls are also wonderfully aromatic and crisp, filled with sausage-like meat within. Other must-tries include the Xiamen-style fried noodles; vegetable wrap rolls; and fried mini wontons the size of small gumdrops. Their clear broth soups are also very well worth trying.  
Xiamen Fengwei, G/F, 44 Mei King St., To Kwa Wan, 2954-9788

Xinjiang
 

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Xinjiang cuisine (which, more often than not, is also known as Uighur cuisine—so named for the group of people who inhabit the region) is one that is heavily lamb-based. This is in part due to its location in the westernmost reaches of China, the religious and ethnic influences (a significant proportion of the population is Islamic, meaning pork is out of the question), and mutton’s relative tenderness compared to meats such as beef. Typically, one would find lamb roasts or mutton-infused dishes in a Uighur meal, while sparse vegetation in the area means that gourds, melons and potatoes are more popular than leafy greens. Cumin seeds are also used to add a little spice to the ingredients. Thick noodles usually accompany the meat and provide a source of starch for the dishes. To sample an authentic Uighur meal, make a trip to the dark and handsome Ba Yi restaurant in Pok Fu Lam, owned by Xinjiang native Bobby Ma. The dig has been serving saucy noodles and lamb roasts since 2006, and colorful clippings of magazine articles along its walls show that it has been generating positive buzz for quite some time. Ba Yi’s menu is different for lunch and dinner; whereas Xinjiang-style noodle sets (a saucy and tomatoey concoction combining mutton strips, shreds of potato and thick white noodles) are offered during the day, ginormous pots and skewers of lamb, geese and meat roasts are available by night. 
Ba Yi, G/F, 43 Water St., Sai Ying Pun, 2484-9981

Beijing
 

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Beijing/Mandarin cuisine is one of the most well known culinary styles in China and is often also linked to Chinese imperial-style cuisine, given its affiliation with royalty in a bygone era. Many imperial dishes have been passed down from the Manchurian and Han Chinese imperial banquets from the Qing dynasty, where more than one hundred extravagant and flavorful dishes would be prepared for the emperor and his court in Beijing. Imperial dishes favor wheat-based products such as noodles, dumplings, buns and pancakes over rice-based products, as wheat grows abundantly in the area. Typically, Beijing cuisine is also dominated by snacks and variations of frying styles. Condiments such as bean paste, dark soy sauce, vinegar, salt and garlic are typically used to complement the meats which are usually stewed, deep-fried or stir-fried. To enjoy the grandeur of this style of Northern Chinese cuisine, head to Sha Tin 18 for a front row view of the chefs’ cooking. The restaurant consists of four separate kitchens: a noodle and dumpling kitchen for scrumptious homemade dumplings; a barbecue kitchen for roast poultry and pigeons; a wok kitchen for fiery meat dishes; and finally a tea bar and dessert kitchen for delectable treats—try the Chinese-style plum sherbet. Of course, Sha Tin 18 also offers all-time favorites, including a melt-in-your-mouth roast Peking duck (pieces of golden duck skin wrapped in Chinese pancakes and accompanied by sweet and garlicky sauces) and hand-pulled noodles, as well as refreshing spring broths such as their double-boiled pork soup with pear and dendrobium orchid.
Sha Tin 18, 4/F, Hyatt Regency Sha Tin, 18 Chak Cheung St., Sha Tin, 3723-1234

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