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Away With the Ferries
Hong Kong’s lesser-known ferry services are the key to exploring more remote parts of the SAR, writes Yi Li Dawson.
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Hong Kong is known for its ferries. The best-known boats are the ones that take you from Central to the major outlying islands of Lantau, Lamma and Cheung Chau. However, with so much fun to be had, these places get extremely overcrowded on the weekends. So why not try a lesser-known route? There are several smaller ferry services serving more remote spots that probably won’t be overrun with visitors. Read on for some of our favorites.
Sam Ka Tsuen/Sai Wan Ho to Tung Lung Chau
While many people come to this windswept island for rock-climbing, Tung Lung Chau (Eastern Dragon Island), off the Clearwater Bay Peninsula, is also home to a 300-year-old maritime fort from the Qing Dynasty as well as a prehistoric stone carving. It also has a campsite for those who want to stay overnight. No need to bring your camp stove, though—between the campground and the pier is a restaurant serving basic noodle and rice dishes.
The Ferry: There are two ferries to Tung Lung Chau. One from Sam Ka Tseun, Lei Yue Mun (operated by Coral Sea Ferry, 2513-1103) and one from Sai Wan Ho (operated by Lam Kee Ferry, 2560-9929). For a ferry schedule, log onto www.oasistrek.com/tung_lung_chau_e.php (for reference only).
While many people come to this windswept island for rock-climbing, Tung Lung Chau (Eastern Dragon Island), off the Clearwater Bay Peninsula, is also home to a 300-year-old maritime fort from the Qing Dynasty as well as a prehistoric stone carving. It also has a campsite for those who want to stay overnight. No need to bring your camp stove, though—between the campground and the pier is a restaurant serving basic noodle and rice dishes.
The Ferry: There are two ferries to Tung Lung Chau. One from Sam Ka Tseun, Lei Yue Mun (operated by Coral Sea Ferry, 2513-1103) and one from Sai Wan Ho (operated by Lam Kee Ferry, 2560-9929). For a ferry schedule, log onto www.oasistrek.com/tung_lung_chau_e.php (for reference only).
Sai Kung Pier to Yim Tin Tsai
Yim Tin Tsai (Small Salt Field) is a offshore tiny island in Sai Kung. There are currently no permanent residents—just the ruins of an old Hakka village, which was first colonized more than 300 years ago. Yim Tin Tsai is home to many species of mangrove trees, six of which cannot be found anywhere else. You can also see the old salt flats and a collection of old agricultural tools that rival the better-known village-museum in Pak Tam Chung. Besides the scenery, you can also visit St. Joseph’s Chapel, which was built by Catholic missionaries in 1890. After extensive refurbishment, it received the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation in 2005. The historic chapel is a rare example of how European architectural styles were mixed with features typical of a Chinese village chapel. Call ahead and the friendly villagers who return for the weekend tourists can help you to arrange a beachside barbecue or even a poon choi meal (stew in a metal basin) from their tiny visitor’s center.
The Ferry: The Yim Tin Tsai Rural Committee runs its own ferry on weekends. It goes from Sai Kung Pier five times a day between 10am and 2:30pm, and makes return trips between 12:30pm and 5pm. The trip costs $35 per person for a round-trip. For parties of 15 or more, you can charter your own boat. Visit
www.yimtintsai.com for more details.
Yim Tin Tsai (Small Salt Field) is a offshore tiny island in Sai Kung. There are currently no permanent residents—just the ruins of an old Hakka village, which was first colonized more than 300 years ago. Yim Tin Tsai is home to many species of mangrove trees, six of which cannot be found anywhere else. You can also see the old salt flats and a collection of old agricultural tools that rival the better-known village-museum in Pak Tam Chung. Besides the scenery, you can also visit St. Joseph’s Chapel, which was built by Catholic missionaries in 1890. After extensive refurbishment, it received the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation in 2005. The historic chapel is a rare example of how European architectural styles were mixed with features typical of a Chinese village chapel. Call ahead and the friendly villagers who return for the weekend tourists can help you to arrange a beachside barbecue or even a poon choi meal (stew in a metal basin) from their tiny visitor’s center.
The Ferry: The Yim Tin Tsai Rural Committee runs its own ferry on weekends. It goes from Sai Kung Pier five times a day between 10am and 2:30pm, and makes return trips between 12:30pm and 5pm. The trip costs $35 per person for a round-trip. For parties of 15 or more, you can charter your own boat. Visit
www.yimtintsai.com for more details.
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Sai Kung Pier to Kiu Tsui and Wan Tsai
Kiu Tsui (Sharp Island) is another island off the coast of Sai Kung that offers a soft sand beach, several nature trails and woodland foliage. The beach on Kiu Tsui offers a peaceful and quiet alternative to nearby Hap Mun Bay, which is full of people during the holidays. Facilities such as toilets, showers and lifeguards are available and you can do all sorts of activities from BBQs and fishing to swimming and just lying out on the beach. The greenery and trees further inland offer beautiful scenery and shade on a sunny day. During low tide, you can walk across a tombolo and explore Kiu Tau, a tiny islet connected to Kiu Tsui. Experienced hikers can hike from Kiu Tsui to Hap Mun Bay via a circular hill path, but be careful—the paths are steep and some are overgrown.
Wan Tsai is a peninsula that extends from Sai Kung West Country Park. With a tiny little shore and a nature trail, this neat little island is a popular destination for campers and mountain-bikers. Wan Tsai is the only place in Hong Kong that is completely designated for mountain biking. You can get the best view of Hong Kong’s Long Harbour from the island, and it provides access to pavilions, BBQ pits, benches, tables and bathing and toilet facilities.
The Ferry: Kaito services from Sai Kung Pier to Kiu Tsui and Wan Tsai operate daily from 7am to 7pm according to demand, with prices starting at $12 for a return trip. More information can be found at www.travelinsaikung.org.hk.
Kiu Tsui (Sharp Island) is another island off the coast of Sai Kung that offers a soft sand beach, several nature trails and woodland foliage. The beach on Kiu Tsui offers a peaceful and quiet alternative to nearby Hap Mun Bay, which is full of people during the holidays. Facilities such as toilets, showers and lifeguards are available and you can do all sorts of activities from BBQs and fishing to swimming and just lying out on the beach. The greenery and trees further inland offer beautiful scenery and shade on a sunny day. During low tide, you can walk across a tombolo and explore Kiu Tau, a tiny islet connected to Kiu Tsui. Experienced hikers can hike from Kiu Tsui to Hap Mun Bay via a circular hill path, but be careful—the paths are steep and some are overgrown.
Wan Tsai is a peninsula that extends from Sai Kung West Country Park. With a tiny little shore and a nature trail, this neat little island is a popular destination for campers and mountain-bikers. Wan Tsai is the only place in Hong Kong that is completely designated for mountain biking. You can get the best view of Hong Kong’s Long Harbour from the island, and it provides access to pavilions, BBQ pits, benches, tables and bathing and toilet facilities.
The Ferry: Kaito services from Sai Kung Pier to Kiu Tsui and Wan Tsai operate daily from 7am to 7pm according to demand, with prices starting at $12 for a return trip. More information can be found at www.travelinsaikung.org.hk.
Wong Shek Pier (Sai Kung) to Tap Mun
Tap Mun (Grass Island) is situated in the northern part of Sai Kung and is popular for its “iceless” cold milk tea, boiled squid and sun-dried fish and shrimp. As its name suggests, the island is covered in healthy green grass that’s home to a variety of small cattle, which run freely around the island. Several temples are dotted around, and other popular attractions include Tap Mun Cave and Balanced Rock as well as its long rocky bay. Go for a seafood lunch at one of the many restaurants and teahouses scattered across the island.
The Ferry: The Tsui Wah Ferry Service takes passengers from Wong Shek Pier to Tap Mun and back. From Monday to Friday, there are seven ferries per day between 7:45am and 6pm ($8) and 12 per day on weekends and public holidays between 8am and 6:05pm ($12). There is also a service to Tap Mun from Ma Liu Shui Pier, near the University MTR station. Find more info at www.traway.com.hk.
Tap Mun (Grass Island) is situated in the northern part of Sai Kung and is popular for its “iceless” cold milk tea, boiled squid and sun-dried fish and shrimp. As its name suggests, the island is covered in healthy green grass that’s home to a variety of small cattle, which run freely around the island. Several temples are dotted around, and other popular attractions include Tap Mun Cave and Balanced Rock as well as its long rocky bay. Go for a seafood lunch at one of the many restaurants and teahouses scattered across the island.
The Ferry: The Tsui Wah Ferry Service takes passengers from Wong Shek Pier to Tap Mun and back. From Monday to Friday, there are seven ferries per day between 7:45am and 6pm ($8) and 12 per day on weekends and public holidays between 8am and 6:05pm ($12). There is also a service to Tap Mun from Ma Liu Shui Pier, near the University MTR station. Find more info at www.traway.com.hk.
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Aberdeen/Stanley to Po Toi Island
Po Toi is the main island of Po Toi Islands, a group of offshore islands south-east of Hong Kong Island. You can get here by taking a ferry from Aberdeen or Stanley’s Blake Pier. It is well-known for its rock formations—Palm Rock is a notable one, among others. Scenic trails take you around little streams, an old, abandoned haunted house, ancient rock carvings and many other sights. Typical of any fishing village, there is a temple dedicated to Tin Hau located near the center of the village, where you can also find many seafood restaurants. The popular Ming Kee Seafood Restaurant (2849-7038) comes highly recommended. Bookings for ferries and the restaurant are encouraged, as they often get filled with big groups.
The Ferry: The Tsui Wah Ferry Service offers intermittent trips to Po Toi from Aberdeen and Blake Pier in Stanley. The fare costs $20 one-way and $40 round-trip. On Tuesdays and Thursdays: Aberdeen-Po Toi, 10am; Po Toi-Aberdeen, 2pm. On Saturdays: Aberdeen-Po Toi (via Stanley), 10am and 3pm; Po Toi-Aberdeen, 2pm and 4pm. On Sundays: Aberdeen-Po Toi, 8:15am; Po Toi-Aberdeen, 6pm. Stanley-Po Toi, 10am, 11:30am, 3:30pm and 5pm. Po Toi-Stanley, 9:15am, 10:45am, 3pm and 4:30pm. Find more info at www.traway.com.hk.
Po Toi is the main island of Po Toi Islands, a group of offshore islands south-east of Hong Kong Island. You can get here by taking a ferry from Aberdeen or Stanley’s Blake Pier. It is well-known for its rock formations—Palm Rock is a notable one, among others. Scenic trails take you around little streams, an old, abandoned haunted house, ancient rock carvings and many other sights. Typical of any fishing village, there is a temple dedicated to Tin Hau located near the center of the village, where you can also find many seafood restaurants. The popular Ming Kee Seafood Restaurant (2849-7038) comes highly recommended. Bookings for ferries and the restaurant are encouraged, as they often get filled with big groups.
The Ferry: The Tsui Wah Ferry Service offers intermittent trips to Po Toi from Aberdeen and Blake Pier in Stanley. The fare costs $20 one-way and $40 round-trip. On Tuesdays and Thursdays: Aberdeen-Po Toi, 10am; Po Toi-Aberdeen, 2pm. On Saturdays: Aberdeen-Po Toi (via Stanley), 10am and 3pm; Po Toi-Aberdeen, 2pm and 4pm. On Sundays: Aberdeen-Po Toi, 8:15am; Po Toi-Aberdeen, 6pm. Stanley-Po Toi, 10am, 11:30am, 3:30pm and 5pm. Po Toi-Stanley, 9:15am, 10:45am, 3pm and 4:30pm. Find more info at www.traway.com.hk.
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