Kenneth Tse
Tse Kee noodle stall in Aberdeen is famous for its delicious deep-fried fish balls, fish cakes and fish skins. Although it only operates between 10am and 6pm, it’s so popular that the short hours are more than enough to sustain the business. Celebrities love it, gourmands rave about it, and regulars come everyday for the same dishes. However, the shop—which has stood on Aberdeen’s Old Main Street for 65 years—is closing. Kenneth Tse, one of the founder’s seven sons, shares the story of the family-run eatery with Maggie Tam.
HK Magazine: What made your family decide to close down the fish ball shop when your food is so sought-after?
Kenneth Tse: The price of fish has been soaring crazily these past few years, and its supply and quality are also deteriorating. It’s also tougher to hire good staff—young people nowadays are less willing to do laborious work. But most importantly, we are old. We can’t do business for the rest of our lives, right? I’m the youngest among all my brothers, and I’m already 52. It’s time for us to retire and enjoy life.
HK: What is the secret to your fish balls, which have been so popular over the years?
KT: There are no tricks—we simply use ingredients of the best quality. Fish balls are made of 100 percent fish meat, and we don’t mix them with flour, a practice adopted by other eateries. The fish is fresh, and that’s it. But as the price of fish is becoming unreasonable, it’s hard for us to keep up quality in the long run.
HK: Did you consider raising the price of your fish ball dishes, or even transform your shop into a high-end brand?
KT: We charge $25 for a bowl of fish ball noodles. It’s hard to find anything cheaper elsewhere. But we don’t want to raise the price or give the shop a face-lift because of our patrons. They love the affordable delicacies and the people here.
HK: Do you have any special memories of your regulars?
KT: There are many! Edmond Leung, Richie Jen, and Eason Chan. Eason is actually the one who leaked the news of our shop’s closure days before we planned to announce! He wrote on Weibo [China’s version of Twitter] on February 21 that we’re closing the business, but we intended to go public with the news on March 1. How dare he… haha!
HK: Will you keep making fish balls for your family and yourself after you retire?
KT: No more, thanks! I’ve been eating fish balls for decades—indeed, for my entire life. I have had enough! I would love to travel around with my family. We can only go on vacation during Lunar New Year every year. This year we can finally go on a trip during non-peak season!
Tse Kee will close its doors on March 31. This is your very last chance to go try their famous fish balls! Find the store at 80-82 Old Main St., Aberdeen, 2552-3809.