Chef Pierre Gagnaire
Veteran star chef Pierre Gagnaire is known for putting his name on French fine-dines all over the world; our very own Pierre outlet at the Mandarin Oriental is just one arm of his multi-limbed culinary empire. Having started out as a chef who pushed the boundaries of traditional French cuisine and a pioneer of modern French fare, Gagnaire now has Michelin stars and global recognition all under his belt. He tells Adele Wong how his Hong Kong restaurant is different from his Tokyo one, and why food isn’t the most important element to a successful venture.
On Beginnings
I opened my first restaurant in France in 1977. Opening it wasn’t difficult. What was difficult was that it was in a small city in the middle of France. There weren’t many guests or tourists. It was a very small business so we didn’t always have a lot of people
to entertain.
On Hong Kong
At the beginning it was difficult. When we arrived, Hongkongers were not very nice to us. Now we have our identity, our clientele, and when they come, they know us. The only problem is the wine. The customers want to bring their own bottle of wine in Hong Kong, and that is a big problem. In France, people would never do that; they always buy in the restaurant. Same in Tokyo and London. Only in Hong Kong, because the people love their wine.
On Status
The public first learned about me from the Gault Millau guide. Michelin was more conservative, so they discovered me a little bit later. Now Michelin is a big group—it’s not just a guide; it’s a big company. Sometimes it’s not fair, but it’s part of the game. They judge you, and it’s their own opinion, not yours. The Michelin guide is one thing, but then there are the guests, and if you make your guests happy, they’ll come back.