10 Days in Myanmar

The ubiquitous Lonely Planet guide appeared to be every foreigner's Bible (at least, those who weren't shepherded about in massive tour groups), and I too was a devotee. Because Myanmar is such a new destination for many foreigners, in this column—instead of outlining an itinerary or suggesting cool places to hit up—I'm going to share some tips and funny stories from the adventure. Many Hongkongers have already made the trek; others have Myanmar at the top of their to-visit list (where it rightly should be!). So when the latter book their flights and the former go again, I hope these hints will prove useful in some way.

• Be prepared. Unlike in other parts of Southeast Asia, where winging it is the rule rather than the exception, it's important to book flights and hotels in advance. There's a shortage of both these travel essentials, yet as of now you can't buy domestic flight tickets online and many hotels don't have websites either. Use Agoda, or a travel agent, instead. Bear in mind, therefore, that Myanmar's underdeveloped infrastructure makes it very difficult to fit the "big four" (Yangon, Bagan, Inle Lake and Mandalay) into a short trip. Also, a nail impaled the sole of my foot (pagodas and monasteries, which are on practically every block and require you to be barefoot), so it's wise to carry a small first aid kit. Make sure it includes Immodium so you can try all the Burmese curries and salads with no fear for your stomach. A flashlight, too, proves useful as even nice mid-range hotels experience blackouts. Crisp US dollars are a must; a wrinkled or older notes won't be accepted by money changers, hotels or restaurants. Luckily, though, the rate has standardized at around 850 kyat per USD.
• Muster all your patience. It sounds easier than it is, at least for me. For Hongkongers used to efficient transport and (relatively) speedy service, Myanmar's a place where we have to let go of our perfectly timed itineraries. And reliable Wi-Fi. One domestic flight was rescheduled to be an hour and a half earlier, and then wound up being so delayed that it left at the time it was supposed to *throws hands up in the air*. At Sule Paya in Yangon, a central pagaoda, we felt swindled when asked for what we thought was a mandatory entrance fee but turned out to be a somewhat deceiving "donation" of money to watch our shoes.
• Simply slow down. It's like Simon and Garfunkel said—we all move too fast, especially in Hong Kong. It seems that most of Myanmar's populace while away the days at local teahouses, so stop into one and attempt to chat with locals and try the ridiculously sweet Myanmar tea that's somewhat akin to Hong Kong's own. That's how you're going to see what everyone agrees is the country's premier attraction: the genuinely warm, friendly, smiley, laid-back people. That's one lesson I hope I can take back to Hong Kong with me—that the delays and the blackouts and the getting lost and the sudden downpours don't have to be an impediment to a successful trip. That they can actually create one.

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