Hong Kong’s Outlying Islands
With summer here, it’s time to grab your Octopus card and escape the sweltering city. In half an hour you could be kicking back on a beach, salivating over a huge plate of seafood, and wondering to yourself: maybe I should move here…
Cheung Chau
What it is
Sailing into Cheung Chau harbor is a trip back in time. Traditionally a fishermen’s village, the water is packed with junk boats, houseboats, fish trawlers and wooden sampans. This otherwise peaceful, dumbbell-shaped island explodes into chaos once a year during the Bun Festival in May, which attracts thousands of visitors who huddle around Pak Tai Temple to watch the tower-climbing, bun-snatching ritual. But afterwards, Cheung Chau returns to its natural state—a quiet retreat with delicious seafood, and panoramic sea views.
What to do
Turn left from the ferry pier and walk—or rent a bike for about $10 per hour—along Praya Road for 15 minutes, or until you see signs for the Cheung Po Tsai Cave. Follow the well-marked paths until you find the entrance to this underground lair, supposedly a hideaway of notorious pirate Cheung Po Tsai. The cave isn’t for the squeamish, though, as it’s quite dark and cramped. Villages used to sell torches to tourists passing through—but these days, everyone just uses their smartphones. Afterwards, steal some snapshots of the Reclining Rock across the water. Follow signs uphill to the Tin Hau Temple, which offers gorgeous views of the sea.
Catch the local ferry from the Sai Wan Kaito Pier back to Praya Road (one-way trips cost $5), where you can dig into one of the many seafood restaurants along the water. New Baccarat Seafood Restaurant (9A Pak She Praya Rd., 2981-0606) is among the best bets. After lunch, walk around to the 200-year-old Pak Tai Temple and continue on past Tung Wan Beach and Kwun Yam Wan Beach, where Olympic windsurfing gold medalist Lee Lai-shan trained.
Continue up the hillside, duck into the Kwun Yam Temple for a quick look, and then continue past the aptly named Human Head Rock until you reach the granite-railed walkway that’s been dubbed the “Mini Great Wall.” The walk stretches on for about 15 minutes, with unbroken sea views and a lookout point.
On your way back to the ferry pier, be sure to stop by Island Brewery (16 Tung Wan Rd., 9281-7755), a hole-in-the-wall snack shop that whips out the island’s famous spiral potato chip sticks for about $20 a pop. The “brewery” doesn’t serve beer, but luckily the neighboring B&B Cheung Chau (2-14 Tung Wan Rd., 2986-9990, www.bbcheungchau.com.hk) has a cheery alfresco bar.
Fancy a hike?
Hikers will enjoy the 50-minute trek up to the North Lookout Pavilion, which starts behind the Pak Tai Temple on Cheung Pak Road.
How to get there
Cheung Chau is a 40-minute ride on a fast ferry from Central Pier 5. Ferries depart every half hour and cost $24.60 Mon-Sat; $35.30 on Sundays and public holidays.