Soy Sauce Western: Hong Kong’s Self-Made Cuisine

At the end of February, Mid-Levels stalwart restaurant Czarina shut its doors. The establishment had been around since 1964, and made its mark serving a unique style of Hong Kong cuisine: soy sauce western. Essentially a very localized interpretation of western dishes—one where steak is offered with rice instead of potatoes—soy sauce western is a tribute to Hong Kong’s complicated colonial past, and it’s an increasingly niche dining category in the city. In commemoration of Czarina and the dwindling number of SSW restos around town, we revisit five longstanding east-meets-west establishments.