A Hongkonger's Guide to The Philippine Island of Boracay
The island of Boracay in the central Philippines is one of the great island paradises of the world. Although much of the country is still reeling from the effects of Typhoon Haiyan, Boracay missed the worst of the destruction. What the Philippines now needs is investment: visit, spend tourist dollars, and help to get the people of this island nation back on their feet. Photos by Katie Kenny.
Getting There
If possible, arrive in Manila during the day, so your next flight can land in Caticlan Airport, which only operates during daylight hours. Cebu Pacific flies daily; high season (October-May) tickets start at $1,825. Flying to Kalibo Airport is cheaper, but you’ll have to take an hour-and-a-half van ride to the Caticlan Jetty Port and they never leave when you want them to—the drivers will wait until every seat is filled. From Caticlan, hop on a motorized tricycle and take a quick ride (40 Pesos; $7) to the Jetty Port, where you’ll need to pay an environment tax (75 Pesos; $15) and also buy a ferry ticket (25 Pesos; $13) to Boracay. Once on Boracay, your journey isn’t over yet. Walk straight out of the pier and grab another tricycle to your hotel. Depending on where you’re staying, this shouldn’t be more than 150 Pesos ($26). Be sure to set your price before you get in the vehicle—they’ll try to add more for any hills they encounter later on.
Travel Tip
Keep about 700 Pesos ($125) in cash on you when you’re travelling. Unseen costs mount up: environment (AKA visitor) tax, ferry tickets, and airport tax: (when you leave). Word to the wise: steer clear of boat crews and workers at the ports. They will aggressively assist you by reaching for your bags without asking if you want their help. After they carry your bag and direct you around the many fee areas, they’ll demand a tip.
Getting Your Feet Wet
Classic paraw vs. motorized paraw
On your first full day in Boracay, hit the ground running and plan an island hopping excursion on a paraw—a local sailboat with two outriggers and two sails. There are larger, motorized ones where you can sit inside, but my personal preference is the smaller (and slightly intimidating) kind where sailors sit on nets which extend from the hull. If you’re worried about getting your feet wet then maybe you’ll want a bigger boat—expect to get dunked during sharp turns and choppy seas. It’s awesome.
Nice views from the paraw / One of the caves hidden underneath Crystal Cove
Before starting your afternoon of exploring the beautiful islands surrounding Boracay, ask your captain to take you to three spots: the waters in front of the luxurious Shangri-La’s Boracay Resort and Spa (Barangay Yapak, Boracay, +(63) 036-288-4988) beach for a touch of snorkeling; Crocodile Island for diving and the silly-looking activity of reef walking (you’ll have an astronaut helmet to top off your swimsuit) or more snorkeling; and finally Crystal Cove for amazing cave exploring, awesome lookout towers, easy hiking, snacks, even more snorkeling and the strangest, most incongruous collection of statues you have ever seen.
After conquering the neighboring islands, fill the rest of your sun-soaked days with even more water activities such as stand-up paddle boarding along Boat Station 1 on the west of the island, plus wedgie-inducing parasailing or a relaxing paddle in a see-through “crystal kayak“ canoe. For those looking to really get in on the action, head over to Bulabog Beach (known as the “windy beach”) for some kitesurfing. Experts or novices can take part, as all of the equipment is provided, along with extremely skilled (and distractingly sexy) instructors.
If you’re looking to just chill out on the beach grab a couple towels, dry bags and head to either of the pristine sands of Station 1 or Station 2 of White Beach—it honestly feels like sifted flour. Another less touristy beach to visit (and to get some great souvenir shopping in) is Puka Beach on the north side of the island. Take a dip, buy a gaudy ukulele and grab some coconut juice at Puka Grande Restaurant.
Travel Tip
Make sure you bring a couple of dry bags if you’re going anywhere near water. The compartments in the boats don’t keep water out, and if you’re hanging out on the beach and want to go for a swim it’s best to bring your valuables with you. A good friend of mine learned about the night time clothing thieves when she decided to go skinny dipping. It’s all fun and games—until you have to go to the police station naked. Dry bags available from $35 at RC Outfitters (Various locations including 2/F, Kin Tak Fung Commercial Building, 467-473 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2390-0020).
Eating Your Fill
There are a lot of dining choices on the island, but only a handful are memorable. Paupatri Restaurant (Station 2, Balabag, (+63) 036-288-2477, facebook.com/paupatri.boracay) offers up some of the best Filipino food on the island. The husband and wife who own the establishment cook everything in front of you at their open kitchen, and they’re open to special requests if you call ahead. The entire resto is built over a tiny body of water, and looks like a treehouse filled with comfy cushions. If you’re only planning on one special meal during your trip, book a table here. Go at lunch for a quieter experience and a closer look at the cooks at work—they’re happy to chat about their dishes.