The Glutton's Guide To Penang

A kaleidoscope of cuisines, Penang’s food culture is simmering with flavors from China, India and Malaysia thanks to years spent as a trading hub and British army port. This turtle-shaped island in the Malacca Strait, with its capital of George Town in the northeast corner, is a paradise for those with an adventurous palate—particularly if you love seafood and can handle some spice. The sheer abundance of hawker centers means that a great meal is never far away—and rarely costs more than a few ringgits; for anything on this list, expect to pay between MYR2 and MYR15 ($5 and $35).
 

   1. Char Kway Teow   

Perhaps the best known of Malay street foods, char kway teow is a delicious mix of flat rice noodles, minced garlic, fresh prawns, eggs, soy sauce, cockles and myriad veggies that are tossed in oil and pan fried at scorching temperatures. The high heat is to thank for the smoky, just-barely burned aroma of the noodles.

 Get a Taste:  You’ll need the patience to wait in line, but the char kway teow at the well-marked Kafe Heng Huat (108 Lorong Selamat, George Town, (+60) 16-269 2222) is said to be among the best in the city.

    2. Chee Cheong Fun    

Like Hong Kong cheung fun, with a bit of a twist. These springy, doughy rice noodles are first rolled into tubes, and then cut into small slices. Though the noodles themselves don’t have much flavor, the sauces poured over top—sweet shrimp paste, sweet dark soy and chili paste—give this popular evening snack a sweet-and-savory flavor. The garnish, roasted sesame seeds, adds a crunchy texture to balance out the delicate noodles.

Get a Taste: It may be super touristy, but the sprawling Gurney Drive Hawker Center in George Town is an easy place to get all of your fixes in one go. There’s a chee cheong fun stand deep in the market, which will have a long line and a guy slicing rice noodles a mile a minute. Take a hint, and join the queue.