Kerala Duty: Exploring the Quiet Side of Southern India
A peaceful escape in southern India, Kerala is home to stunning wildlife sanctuaries, diverse cultural relics and miles of coastline. Chris Wilkins explores this quieter corner of India.
Many first-time visitors to India tend to overlook the South in favor of the North’s famous attractions and striking majesty. But if you’re looking for a holiday that’s more about food and beaches than forts and palaces, head to Kerala. This southwestern state is famous for its laid-back atmosphere, lush tropical scenery and a lengthy coastline stretching almost to the tip of India. Here are three stops to get you started.
Photo: Matt Paish/Flickr
First Stop: Kochi
An ancient trading port exposed to centuries of cultural and religious influences from both Europe and Asia, Kochi has a fascinating history that’s sure to please inquisitive travellers. Learn all about it, starting at the Paradesi Synagogue (Synagogue Lane, Kappalandimukku, Kochi, Kerala, (+91) 471-232-1132). Built in 1568 by Kerala’s long-established Jewish community, the eccentrically decorated interior is a perfect example of the city’s complex heritage. It’s like a museum of early globalization, featuring various relics from all across the world, including Belgian glass chandeliers and hundreds of 18th-century hand-painted floor tiles imported from Guangzhou.
And of course, Kochi’s old town of Fort Kochi also speaks to the area’s diverse background: the territory was passed between the Portuguese, Dutch, British and local maharajas for centuries—hence the mix of Catholic basilicas, Hindu temples and European architecture. After strolling through town, stop for dinner at Oceanos Restaurant (Elphinstone Rd., near Bishop House, Fort Kochi, (+91) 99-95-105-110), where you can sample a range of beautifully cooked and perfectly spiced Keralan dishes—including fish curries and dal, as well as Syrian Christian dishes, which are unique to Kerala. As you leave Kochi, make your way inland to the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary—one of the richest bird habitats in India.
Photo: Devika/Flickr
Next Stop: Kerala Backwaters
The backwaters of Kerala make it onto most must-do lists for good reason: this complex network of narrow rivers and lagoons runs through much of coastal Kerala, affording glimpses of wildlife and a quieter way of life. It’s best explored by hiring a traditional kettuvallam (houseboat): most visitors start their trip from Alappuzha, also known as Alleppey, where an ever-increasing number of boat operators aggressively clamour for business. There are bargains to be had—and plenty of rip-offs.
Photo: Rabble/Flickr
Last Stop: Varkala
Perched along a craggy cliff overlooking the beach, Varkala is a great place to while away the days. Though the main strip in town is a bit touristy and brimming with backpacker kitsch, this hippy hangout is a great base for exploring the beaches along the Arabian Sea. Four miles from the city center, you’ll find Kappil Beach, a deserted stretch of white sand lined with colorful fishing boats. Look out for the tiny family-run place at the very end of the beach, where the backwaters meet the ocean. The owner will be more than happy to whip up some pancakes and juice, and arrange a ride back to town.
Getting There: Air India flies to Kochi via New Delhi several times weekly, with return flights for about $5,000.
