Check Mate
Newly renovated The Pawn (62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444) has enlisted British chef Tom Aikens (whose resume includes working at Michelin-starred restos across the UK, and running several eponymously named establishments in London) to head up the kitchen. The new Pawn has much brighter interiors, and instead of the gritty, raw look of its former self, now we’re talking soft wood tones, fluffy couches at the bar and cushion-lined seats in the dining room. The menu, although still modern British by name, is nevertheless completely different: there’s been a slide towards the posher end of the spectrum, with dishes like black garlic razor clams and lobster mac and cheese flanking massive short rib dishes and hearty pies for mains. Most items are meant for sharing. Remember to save room for fancy cocktails and desserts.
Welcome to the Club
Socialito has bid farewell, and in its place is Bungalow (G/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 2623-7868) by the Privé group—taking back the space where the original Privé used to be. But don’t expect loud music, dim lights or finance types lingering outside the door—Bungalow is worlds apart from the old Privé. In fact, it’s going for a high-end supper club vibe, with classical French décor and borderline-kinky paintings hanging in gilded frames on the walls. Plush booth seats and white tablecloths encourage diners to participate in a highly civilized meal cooked up by Taiwanese-American chef Steve Chou. Food-wise, salads topped with oozy eggs, delicately cooked seafood and thick slabs of ribeye are all part of the predominantly French menu.
The Great Gradini
Gradini (Lobby, The Pottinger, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2308-3088) at The Pottinger is now open for business, serving Italian dishes— pasta, risotto, antipasto... everything save pizza—in an elegant, high-ceilinged space that is as hipster-repelling as it gets in this day and age. The mains start in the low $200s, so expect to leave with a significantly lighter wallet.
