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The Wild Western: What to do in Sai Ying Pun

Adam White seeks out everything to do around in the city's newest MTR station.

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Jonathan Wong/SCMP

Sai Ying Pun is one of the oldest areas of Hong Kong. The name means “Western Encampment”: it was home to the British military when they first arrived in Hong Kong. The area doubtless owes its regimented size and nomenclature—First, Second, Third and High Streets, bounded by Eastern, Centre and Western Streets—to a certain military efficiency. In the last three years, gentrification has reared its head and High Street has exploded into a cacophony of restaurants. But this area’s vertiginous charm remains, thanks to a genuine neighborhood feel that we hope lives on long after the MTR opens.

1) Tuck Chong Sum Kee Bamboo Steamer Company

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The Lam family handcrafts bamboo steamers and other bamboo utensils in this little Western Street store, one of the very last in Hong Kong to do so.
12 Western St., Sai Ying Pun, 2548-8201.

2) Sister Wah

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The Tin Hau branch of this famed beef brisket noodle joint is always crowded, but it’s much easier to find a seat at the Sai Ying Pun branch. The broth is sweet, the beef tender, and there’s no line.
305 Queen’s Rd. West, Sai Ying Pun, 2151-1056.

3) Mrs. So’s XO Sauce

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