The Wild Western: What to do in Shek Tong Tsui

An oft-overlooked middle-ground between Sai Ying Pun and Kennedy Town, Shek Tong Tsui is finally back in Hong Kong’s headspace thanks to the opening of the HKU MTR station. In the 1900s the government moved the island’s brothels from Sheung Wan’s Possession Street to Shek Tong Tsui, turning the area into the red light capital of the island. Bounded by the behemoth Belcher’s development and intersected by the mighty Hill Road flyover, there’s a charm to Shek Tong Tsui’s almost-forgotten streets, lined with restaurants and alleys all worth exploring. 1) Western District Public Cargo Working Area Stretching out into the harbor, the long pier may be a busy dockyard by day, but in the evenings it’s left open and becomes a community area where the people of Sai Wan gather to hang out, walk their dogs, sip a beer and watch the sun wind its way beneath the sea. And take photos, of course: it’s known colloquially as “Instagram Pier.” Hipsters aplenty at "Instagram Pier" (Johnlsl via Flickr) 2) Halite STT is home to a branch of this excellent wallet-friendly massage joint. A foot massage is $159 for 45 minutes or $212 for an hour. Shop 9, 4-16 Hill Rd., Shek Tong Tsui, 2777-1101. 3) Café Malacca The ambience might be a touch sterile (it’s inside a hotel after all) but Café Malacca’s Singaporean and Malay bites are well worth the trip. Hotel Jen, 508 Queen’s Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui, 2213-6613. Life: better with Satay 4) XXX Literally and figuratively, XXX is an underground music venue with consistently good tunes and a BYOB policy. So B lots of YOB. B/F, 353-363 Des Voeux Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui. XXX: no, it's not a placeholder 5) Spirit Book Store The STT branch of the venerable second-hand bookstore, established in 1958. It’s always good for a browse. The last great thing we found there? “The John Travolta Annual 1980.” 28 Whitty St., Shek Tong Tsui, 2559-3913. OMG WANT 6) Shek Tong Tsui Cooked Food Centre The cooked food centre’s full of good eats, but we’re partial to the Sichuan food at Tou Yuen Delicacies (桃源美食). Go in a big group and get the whole fish, which comes in a huge pan over a burner, covered in chilis and deliciousness. 3/F, Shek Tong Tsui Market, 470 Queen’s Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui, 2540-0398. 7) Po Kee (波記燒臘粉麵店) Roast goose specialist. Come for the whole roast goose leg noodles, although you’ll have to go early before they sell out. 425 Queen’s Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui. 8) Oppa Chicken Awesome Korean fried chicken with a perennial queue out the door? See you in line. Shop M, 419 Queen’s Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui. KFC to soothe away all woes 9) Da Verm Feel like getting high? Da Verm is home to two 7-meter-high rock-climbing walls so you can train indoors before going up against the real thing. 419G Queen’s Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui, 2803-0567. 10) Luv My Dress There aren’t many fashion boutiques in Shek Tong Tsui, but this stylish showroom is the headquarters of home-grown online fashion store Luv My Dress. 23 Po Tuck St., Shek Tong Tsui, 5334-4135, www.luvmydress.com. Luv My Dress, Luv My Background 11) Ga Gi Nang A brand new Mexican-Asian restobar with a super-chill vibe—and beanbags. Beanbags! 15 Po Tuck St., Shek Tong Tsui, 3565-6641. Whatever this is, it looks dangerous 12) Ba Yi A Xinjiang joint famed for its roast cumin lamb leg. Call ahead to order it, and bring lots of friends. 43 Water St., Shek Tong Tsui, 2484-9981. 13) HKU Relive your student days with a wander through HKU’s rather lovely grounds. Seriously consider doing a Masters. Remember finals? Yeah, they sucked. Enter via Bonham Road. Another Insta-friendly corner of HKU (Pasu Au Yeung via Flickr) 14) The Morning Trail This gentle hike up to The Peak is ideal for a relaxing Sunday stroll, as long as it’s not June, July or August—and you’re not battling a raging hangover. Pick up the path on Kotewall Road at the highest, southernmost tip of HKU and head along Hatton Road. Make sure to stop and check out the old Pinewood Battery fort and its old gun emplacements. “Morning” is the operative word here: The later you go, the more cluttered with families and dogs the trail gets. Good Mooooorning, Hong Kong (sch0705 via Flickr) Fun Fact! The Cantonese slang ham sup, “salty-wet” or “perverted,” is said to have derived from Shek Tong Tsui. The area’s dockworkers were given to frequenting the ladies of Shek Tong Tsui at the end of the day. After a long day’s toiling by the sea their sweat would taste of salt: hence, “salty-wet.”