Hong Kong's Best Late Night Eats
So it’s the middle of the night, you’ve been drinking for five hours, and you’re STARVING. Want to find the best nocturnal noms? Read on. By HK Staff
Sunny Side Up
The modest and slightly run-down Sun Hing Chang specializes in freshly boiled fish congee, and there’s a lot of fish on the Chinese-only menu—fish belly, fish bone, fish tail, fish jaw, fish head, even fish mouth. Not a fish lover? Classic congee condiments such as pork liver and beef are available as well. The service and surrounds aren’t going to wow anyone, but if you’re after a bowl of satisfying, tasty congee to soak up the booze: This joint gets it right.
Open: Daily 6-1am.
23 Ning Po St., Jordan, 2783-8539.
HK Mag favorite Hor Hor Deem (可可店) is a K-Town mainstay that’s particularly popular with HKU students, thanks to its unbeatably low prices. Choose from classic Cantonese snacks like curried fishballs and really excellent cheung fun served with peanut and chili sauces. There’s no English sign, but you won’t miss it—it’s usually packed.
Open: Daily 4pm-3am.
136-142 Belcher’s St., Kennedy Town, 2818-3658.
Recently opened Sum Yeh Loi Chiu (心夜來潮)—which translates poetically to “satisfying a craving for Chiu Chow food late at night”—is a Mong Kok hotspot open until 3am. Munch on chilled seafood, ranging from sea urchin to baby oysters to crab brimming with orange roe. The signature choi cha puts a modern spin on Chiu Chow rice soup: It’s made with a clear vegetable tea and topped with sliced mushroom and peanuts.
Open: Daily 6pm-3am.
Shop A, G/F, Skyline Tower, 18 Tong Mi Rd., Mong Kok, 6737-8676.
It’s hard to find a place that will take care of your entire night, from pre-game down to the wee hours—when all you want to do is stuff your face with food. Enter Amazake, a bar and restaurant sandwiched between three nightclubs: Play, Levels and Dizzi. On Fridays and Saturdays it’s open until 3am, so hit up Amazake for a killer late night menu of ramen bowls, fried chicken, and pork gyozas—and maybe just another cocktail or three.
Open: Thu 6pm-1:30am, Fri-Sat 6pm-3am.
G/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2537-7787.
Just Wing It
Tired of snacking on kebabs after a night in Wan Chai? Next time head to Wing Wah Noodle Shop. These hand-kneaded egg noodles are springy, light and full of texture. Choose from wonton, dumplings, beef tendons, fishballs or barbecued pork as accompaniments.
Open: Daily 11pm-1am.
89 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-7476.
Nice to Meat You
Fresh, fat abalones, large prawns, razor clams and crabs, all dunked in a bubbly congee hotpot. Have all this and more for just $190 per head at Nice Congee Workshop (靚粥工房). Staunch carnivores won’t be disappointed either, as an array of sliced meats plus meat- and fishballs are also available. Have your hotpot, then drink the insanely flavorful and comforting congee at the end. It’s popular, though—you’ll have to book a couple of weeks in advance. Unless you’re going at 1am, that is.
Open: Daily 11am-2am.
Shop 1A, 24 Shanghai St., Jordan, 2377-3813.
Open Really Late...
In Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, in the small print somewhere between “safety” and “self-actualization” it says “beer and kebabs.” That’s where Ebeneezer’s Kebab & Pizzeria comes in. Kebabs, curries, pizzas, biryani, fish and chips… you know the drill. With 15 branches citywide, it’s accessible, inexpensive and just might be the key to functioning in the morning.
Open: Daily 10am-6am.
6 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2114-0555.
Goobne Gracious Me
For a (slightly) healthier alternative, Goobne Chicken is the Hong Kong outpost of a popular Korean chain serving up crispy oven-baked chicken, rather than the deep-fried kind. Up for some adventurous dishes? Goobne offers a Black Pepper Chicken, which is in fact slathered in a fiery, pitch-black pepper sauce. Top it off with a few of the diner’s signature beeritas or cideritas. Alternatively, if you’re looking for a milder end to the evening, opt for some easy egg and spam mari rolls or a fishcake medley in broth.
Open: Mon-Fri 5pm-4am, Sat-Sun noon-4am.
2/F, The Hart, 4 Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2311-0001.
Changwon, Chang ‘Em All
This old-timer has been serving up traditional Korean favorites since before “My Love from the Star” crashed the K-wave into full effect; before Korean Fried Chicken and certainly before the new-fangled “chimney-style” Korean barbecue joints got popular. At Changwon Korean, you can have your fill of classic dishes: from Korean barbecue and kimchi pancakes to bean paste noodles, spicy rice cakes and more. Wash it all down with a cold glass of Hite or three, until five in the morning.
Open: Daily noon-5am.
Shop G, 1 Kimberley St., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-4606.
Here Comes the Sun
Not to be confused with Sun Hing Chang in Jordan (see left), Sun Hing Restaurant is a great late-night dim sum spot in Kennedy Town, with a clientele of elderly K-Town residents and drunk hipsters. The spot opens at 3am, making it an ideal haunt after a long drinking session. Grab a seat and then help yourself to all the dim sum favorites: Make sure to leave room for their excellent lau sa bao, aka custard buns.
Open: Daily 3am-4pm.
Shop C, 8 Smithfield Rd., Kennedy Town, 2816-0616.
Don’t underestimate the name: you’ll be getting big spice here at Little Chilli so you’d best brace your tastebuds. One of the house specialties is chili fried rice—made with diced spam, scrambled egg, bacon and spring onion, it’s dotted with red hot chili peppers for that super addictive tang. Other Sichuan classics are also must-tries, including “water cooked” beef or fish—which is actually boiled in hot chili oil—and dan dan noodles in a smooth, buttery, peanutty broth.
Open: Daily 11am-5am.
33 North Point Rd., North Point, 2571-9822.
Some Like it Hof
It’s late, you’re tired, you’ve probably been drinking. What better solution for your woes than a heaping plate of hot crispy Korean Fried Chicken at one of the city’s top poultry purveyors? Chicken Hof & Soju was one of the first to bring the K-trend to Hong Kong. Depending on how much you want your mouth to burn, you can have it plain, marinated in soy sauce, tossed in sweet and spicy sauce or with a moreish barbecue sauce. Alternatively, there are plenty of other bar bites available, from mixed seafood noodles to a cheese-filled egg roll topped with ketchup and mustard.
Open: Daily noon-5am.
Various locations, including Shop C, G/F, Wah Fat Mansion, 405-419 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2176-4598.
Open All Night
Join the Circus
Burger Circus has a low-key and familiar feel, with comfort food to match. On weeknights the burger joint and dessert expert is open ‘til midnight, but on weekends you can fill up on boozy milkshakes, burgers, jalapeño poppers and more 24 hours a day. Or 24 hours a night, more likely.
Open: Mon-Wed 9am-midnight, Thu-Sun open 24 hours.
22 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2878-7787.
Dating back to 1967, Tsui Wah is perhaps the most emblematic of all late-night Hong Kong eateries. With its no-frills, cha chaan teng roots, it’s the classic post-LKF destination. Go for the Malaysian chicken curry and to check out the throngs of exhausted partiers in the cold, fluorescent light of half-day. A warning: the kitchen switches to simpler noodle-based dishes at 3am.
Open: 24 hours. G-2/F,
15-19 Wellington St., Central, 2525-6338, www.tsuiwah.com.
Lap of Honor
A cha chaan teng is a cha chaan teng is a cha chaan teng, right? Yes and no: You can expect the same fare in most, but some just seem to have a little extra buzz about them. Wah Lap is definitely in this camp. Regarded as Tai Po’s top ‘teng (as evidenced by its expansion into premises next door), everything it does exudes quality, from its curry beef brisket to its dumplings, bakery items and more. Reasonable prices and entertaining staff add to the mix. But wait: are you only in Tai Po because you all got so drunk you decided to go to China?
Open: 24 hours.
48 Po Heung St., Tai Po, 2656-8788.
If a big fat fry up is the only thing that’s going to get you through the next day, then snag a seat at the Flying Pan. With branches in SoHo and Wan Chai, Flying Pan dishes out all the usual brunch staples in epic portions. For an all-American meal, don’t miss the deviled eggs, Belgian waffles, eggs Benedict, peanut butter banana milkshakes and bottomless coffee. And don’t forget: it’s one of the best late-night eavesdropping spots in all of Hong Kong.
Open: 24 hours.
Two locations including 3/F, 81-85 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2528-9997, the-flying-pan.com.
Next of Kin
Partying out in Sham Shui Po? Seek out this venerable cha chaan teng, famous for its beef and egg sandwiches. Kin Kei also serves celebrated fried noodles, French toast and pork knuckle. It’s popular and constantly crowded during the day, so one perk of going in the middle of the night is that you might not have to wait in line.
Open: 24 hours.
38 Kweilin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2748.
Dog Gone It
“Dog noodles” or gau zai fun was a popular Shun Tak streetside snack in the 60s and, no, it has nothing to do with cooking up poor Fido. The name derives from the unique shape of the dish’s thickly rolled rice flour noodles, which resemble a mutt’s tail. It’s also said to originate from the way gau zai fun also sounds like “ration noodles”—this filling, inexpensive dish was used to feed the hungry during the second Sino-Japanese war. Cooked in a clear broth, the noodles are topped with chopped mushrooms, preserved vegetables, dried baby shrimps, garlic, and just a touch of tasty pork lard. At Block 18 Dog Noodles (十八座狗仔粉), don’t forget to get a side of its famed massive duck leg, which is cooked in imitation shark’s fin soup—equally good on its own.
Open: 24 hours.
27A Ning Po St., Jordan.
Roll With It
Rightly renowned for its Shanghai-style ci fan glutinous rice rolls, Shanghai Hong Kong Noodle Shop is clearly not bothered about protecting an ancient secret recipe—its staff make the sticky treats right at the front of the shop. Sticky rice is wrapped tightly around a yau za gwai donut, pork floss, pickle and Sichuan pickled mustard, all served piping hot. Soft, sticky, crunchy and sour—light snacking this isn’t, but your stomach will thank you for it the next morning.
Open: 24 hours.
29 Jardine’s Bazaar, Causeway Bay, 2576-1343.
Having been open for around a year, you might have thought the queues for this Hakata-style tonkotsu ramen joint might have subsided. Think again—crowds are still clamoring for the single item on Ichiran’s menu that continues to keep its 36 booths packed day and night. The signature red sauce is made with a secret blend of more than 30 spices, and the rich pork bone broth and succulent char siu conspire to create something special. Then again, maybe everything tastes special at 6am.
Open: 24 hours.
440 Jaffe Rd., Causeway Bay, 2152-4040.