HK Magazine Archive

What to Do in the New Territories: Sheung Shui

The last stop on the East Rail Line before hitting the mainland, Sheung Shui has developed quickly in the past few years. Thanks to widespread parallel trading it now has something of a trading post feel. Soak up the frontier town vibe, suggests longtime resident Michael Taylor (

PUBLISHED : Tuesday, 14 July, 2015, 4:00pm
UPDATED : Wednesday, 19 October, 2016, 4:45pm

Drink Back In Time

The Better ‘Ole bar has been a New Territories institution since the 1970s, and at one time there were at least five outlets in the market towns of the New Territories. The only surviving branch is caught in a sort of time warp, one of the dwindling number of colonial-era family-run businesses that used to dot Hong Kong. The homemade borscht is legendary, as is the pig knuckle.

35-36 Fu Hing St., Sheung Shui, 2939-2286.

Cafe Culture

Until Starbucks showed up a few weeks ago Cafe Je T’aime, a quirky little Parisian-style cafe on a run-down side street full of hardware stores, was the only spot in Sheung Shui where you could get a decent cup of coffee.

7 San Kung St., Sheung Shui, 9703-8167.

Fit for a Qing

Between Sheung Shui and Fanling, North District Park is one of the loveliest in Hong Kong. Fashioned after the Qing Dynasty gardens of Yangzhou, it has pavilions and a covered walkway. There’s a pebble walkway to massage your feet, an artificial lake, conservation corner, amphitheater, garden and more.