Guide to Hong Kong: Beyond the Walls
A series of stories, recommendations and tips on Hong Kong from people in the know. Explore our city based on the travel experiences that interest you and get itineraries for off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods.
In its earliest days, Hong Kong was a series of small communities subsisting on the land and living inside walled villages, and if you travel up into the New Territories you’ll discover traditional life still exists behind these walls. In fact, you don’t need to move too far away from the heart of downtown Hong Kong to discover a region that will make you feel you’ve ventured back in time to this era, where you’ll still find ancient traditions and a more simple way of life.
Village Life
The Tang clan first settled in Kam Tin in the early 14th century, and Lo Wai was the first of the five wai—or walled villages—they built. It’s enclosed on all four sides by brick walls, with a gateway and entrance tower, which protect the central ancestral hall and adjacent dwellings. Much of the original village walls and internal layout still exist here: if you follow the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail you can see the protected entranceway and walls, but much is closed to the public to protect the villagers’ privacy.
Community Spirit
An ancestral hall is the focal point for any wai villager: it’s a study hall for children, as well as a place for worshipping ancestors, for social gatherings, and for discussing important village issues. Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall in Sheung Shui Wai is an elaborate example built in 1751 by the prosperous Liu clan, who initially settled from Fujian in the Ming Dynasty. Built in the typical three-hall, two-courtyard style, the decoration of the main building is opulent—you’ll be able to see plaster moldings, intricate wood carvings and significant murals.
Organic Growth