What's in Season? In Search of Hong Kong's Best Kaiseki Sets
Japanese haute cuisine gets a summer makeover with Hong Kong’s top kaiseki sets—the multi-course tradition which celebrates fresh, seasonal produce.
Inakaya
Perched neatly on the 101/F of ICC, Inakaya’s summer kaiseki is an orchestration of vibrant colors and intricate flavors designed to pop on your palate. Headed by chef Nozawa Masayoshi, who brings to Hong Kong 20 years of experience studying the art of kaiseki cuisine in Tokyo, Inakaya’s set dinner takes guests on a journey through the aromas of the season, from the seasonal fatty grilled ayu fish, to conger eel stewed in tea or traditional steamed sea eel meant to restore energy and vitality. For something a little more robust, don’t miss the assorted deep fried platter with tanaba crab and almond, scallop roll and kisu fish roll in Kyoto tofu skin. Shop A, 101/F, ICC, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2972-2666.
Nadaman
Traditionally kaiseki is left up to the chef to showcase the foods that are at the prime of their season, but at Nadaman in the Kowloon Shangri-La you can choose your star ingredient, with several kaiseki sets on the menu (from $880 per person) including beef shabu shabu, sushi kaiseki, tempura kaiseki and wagyu steak kaiseki. If you want to go the conventional (and most premium) route, opt for the Choricho Omakase ($1,680) which leaves your meal entirely in the chef’s capable hands. This month, chef Takao Kojima is focusing the kaiseki around two beautiful ingredients: hamo pike eel (traditionally eaten by Japanese in July) and Kyoto Kamonasu eggplant. Lower Level II, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., East Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733-8751.
Kashiwaya
A gem from Japan’s food capital Osaka, Kashiwaya’s artistic and seasonal menus have earned it recognition around the world, including the coveted three-Michelin-star status. This summer, you can sample chef Atsushi Takahashi’s seasonal kaiseki in a seven-course lunch ($1,000) or ten-course dinner ($2,300-4,000) menu, with premium ingredients including octopus ocellatus from Hyogo prefecture, fat greenling from Aomori prefecture, and pen shell clam from Kyushu. The meal is punctuated by an environment that’s just as stunning, with sliding doors, shoji paper screens and a Japanese-style waiting room creating a relaxed and tranquil haven to experience the finest in Japanese haute cuisine. 8/F, On Lan St., Central, 2520-5218, jp-kashiwaya.com
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