Uncommon ground: Jerusalem and the West Bank
A region synonymous with conflict, the West Bank is nonetheless bursting with life, writes Orlando Crowcroft
As the blue and white flag bearing the Star of David struggles to flutter in the humid, sand-flecked breeze of the Jordan Valley, a tanned soldier in baggy jeans and wraparound shades slowly circles the bus. He eyeballs one passenger after another through the filthy windows, his finger twitching on the trigger of an assault rifle.
It may be an unusual way to greet tourists, but Israel can be an unusual place. The bulk of passengers packed into this bus are Arabs, mostly pilgrims, travelling to Jerusalem from Amman across the Allenby Bridge, which connects the West Bank to Jordan, across the Jordan River. The West Bank is referred to as Palestinian territory occupied by Israel.
"They are just trying to scare us," a woman whispers to her daughter. As we dismount and file past more gun-toting young men towards immigration, it's fair to say that they are doing a good job.
"Why do you come to Israel?" barks a teenage guard, eyeing me suspiciously. "Will you travel in the West Bank?"
"No," I lie, "Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. We're on holiday." She gets up suddenly and marches out of the booth with our passports. Just as I am beginning to panic at the thought of the upcoming strip search, she returns, sits down and shrugs. Minutes pass. "Go," she suddenly grunts, tossing our passports across the desk. Welcome to Israel.