On the loose
Freer silhouettes, separates and Asian influences rule the spring-summer catwalks at Milan Fashion Week, writes Francesca Fearon
Fashion, even in Milan, is loosening up. Volume, looser A-line silhouettes and boxy tops were big runway hits at Fashion Week. Asian aesthetics were another major influence on designers in the Italian fashion capital for the spring-summer 2013 shows.
Could we be also witnessing the end of the dress? The thought will send unpleasant shivers down the spines of those who like to flaunt their pins each spring but, judging from the goings-on in New York, London and Milan, separates are set for a revival, with designers thinking outside the box to give them new appeal.
The trouser suit, of course, expresses the very essence of Giorgio Armani, who, for Milan, has layered it, kurta-style, with dresses and waistcoats over loose trousers in liquid greys and navy. It's a style he has worked before. Mannish suits in matt cosmetic tones featured in Emporio Armani with a looser and easier silhouette. But not everything is covered up - sweet satin shorts and minis play to a leggy, youthful audience.
Naturally, MaxMara majors in separates - safari shirts and cargo skirts in biscuit and duck-egg blue where proportions are straight, lean and super chic. Sister brand Sportmax highlights the sportier side of separates with mesh detailing, zips and techno fabrics for blousons - and it does make room for loose graphic dresses.
Tomas Maier bucks the trend at Bottega Veneta with his retro-1940s-style all-dress (no trousers!) collection. It feels vintage-y but fabric details are a masterpiece in modern sartorial wizardry.
