As one of the oldest such neighbourhoods in the world, Bangkok's Chinatown is a mass of contradictions. It is at once cohesive and sprawling. Its denizens are assimilated into mainstream society but also maintain a culture apart. Its heritage has been subject to both the blessings of conservation and threats of demolition.
Now, duelling sentiments are more in evidence than ever as this little enclave - older than the Thai capital itself - faces being smothered by high-rises and hollowed out an extended subway line.
In one corner are traditional Chinese businesses passed down through generations, some operating out of dilapidated shophouses. After nearly a century of modest existence, these businesses are existing on month-to-month leases from the government, which owns most of the land in Chinatown.
"There is no other place like this," says Sirinee Urunanone, whose parents opened a picture frame shop here 40 years ago. Born and raised in Chinatown, Urunanone still speaks the native dialect of her Guangdong-born grandparents. She and other residents have formed a concern group to save shophouses threatened by the bulldozers.
In the other corner are those who have long dreamed of better transport links and investment to attract more business.
Given their centuries-old history, the Chinese in Thailand have extended their influence beyond mere business. Among high-level government officials, those with Chinese heritage are well-represented. The Siamese royals have even produced a king or two with Chinese blood.