The feel good factor

As had been the case in Milan, the start to Paris Fashion Week was foreboding. Some still reminisce about the days when you could tell fashion folk apart from the crowd because they'd be exclusively decked out in black. Times have changed.

Even so, it was fitting that exquisite men's tailoring, tweeds, sombre blacks offset with white, and luxurious leathers and furs emerged as early trends. As the week progressed, though, Paris revealed that designers had not entirely forgotten the importance of playfulness or sensuality even for the winter months.

Luxurious fabrics, sensual to the touch, such as those from Loewe, Givenchy, Rue du Mail and Louis Vuitton brought outfits alive. Lively embroidery and unexpected gemstone embellishments from the likes of Dries Van Noten, Chanel, Lanvin and Chloé, added a sense of dynamic detailing and confidence. At times the use of colour was tongue in cheek, with ironic, off-key pastels such as powder blue and soft pink proudly emblazoned by Carven, Miu Miu, Céline and Valentino.

Slinky, inviting dresses and skirts, such as those at Givenchy and Louis Vuitton, contrasted with the voluminous cocoon-shaped tops that got plenty of play on other catwalks. It's a silhouette much influenced by Balenciaga, and in some instances it was perhaps used in homage to the label, as Alexander Wang takes its reigns from the talented Nicolas Ghesquiere.

Wang's Balenciaga debut was a stern collection, showing off a side to the 29-year-old rarely seen before. The brand's rich archive offers more than enough inspiration, but Wang also applied his own oh-so-urban, contemporary take, with plenty of avant-garde fabrics, notably fur treated to create a marble effect and knits with patterns that resembled cracked paint. Shirts slashed open at the back brought a sensual element to his strict black and white collection. It seems that Wang is winning over sceptics and fans alike.

Kenzo, under Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, is enjoying a renaissance, in full colour. Inspired by ancient Indian temples, catwalk pieces also gave a nod to Kenzo's archival fabrics. Lim and Leon say they "wanted to reference old Asian warriors" and "the ubiquitous eye iconography" that features in many Asian religious motifs and myths. The results were intense, colourful prints; golden brocade, jacquard and lamé separates; and cocoon tops in shiny textured patent.

Similarly unafraid of colour was Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu. True, there were lots of vintage black hour-glass coats and zip-ups, but the stripy skirts, tights and bright polka-dot neck-ties and coats were very playful. Elsewhere, "Godmother of punk" Vivienne Westwood boldly mixed eras: from 1980s power suits with peaked shoulders to medieval-inspired dresses and dramatic highwayman capes. Issey Miyake's colourful interpretation of traditional Scottish dress was one of the most positive statements of the season.