Spice market: pandan leaves

Pandanus amaryllifolius, also known as pandan, or screw pine, is a long, slender, tough green leaf with a lovely, pleasant aroma and a delicate but distinctive taste. You can find fresh or frozen pandan leaves at shops specialising in Thai, Vietnamese and other Southeast Asian ingredients. Look for leaves that are supple and bright green, rather than those that are turning yellow or brown.

Some shops also sell small bottles of pandan extract, although these often taste artificial. To make your own pandan extract, cut the leaves as finely as possible and place in a food processor. Turn on the motor and drizzle in just enough water so that the blade starts chopping the leaves. Process until the leaves turn into a coarse paste, then scrape it into a double layer of moistened, food-grade cheesecloth. Carefully squeeze out as much liquid as possible into a bowl (this part is very messy). Use the extract to colour and flavour cakes, cookies, crepes, ice cream and jellies.

Pandan is also used in savoury dishes. Tie a leaf into a knot, add it to white rice and simmer with coconut milk. Marinate boneless chunks of chicken with fish sauce, garlic, chillies and lime juice, then wrap the pieces in pandan leaves and fry or grill them. Serve the chicken still wrapped in the leaves, but warn your guests to remove them before eating the meat.