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Susan Jung

Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack
	By Martin Picard

 
I've been searching high and low for this book by Montreal-based chef Martin Picard. I asked my friends visiting Canada to bring back a copy, but apparently it's hard to find there, too. Eventually, I resorted to ordering it through amazon.com - the shipping cost almost as much as the book.
I'm glad it's finally in my hot little hands, though. I've never eaten at Picard's Au Pied de Cochon, but it sounds as though the restaurant serves the kind of food I love - extravagantly rich and indulgent, with dishes such as foie gras poutine, foie gras hamburger, pig's feet stuffed with foie gras, lobster roll (also containing foie gras) and duck in a can.
I have his first book, Au Pied de Cochon, and love the quirky illustrations (mostly of pigs, birds, seafood and other ingredients) and photos, one of which turns food porn on its head: it shows a scantily clad Picard and another rotund man posing for a rather horrifying Bacchanalian still life.

His second book is named after the cabane à sucre - the shacks where sap from the sugar maple tree is boiled and condensed until it becomes maple syrup or sugar. Picard has a sugar shack in Quebec, which he turned into a restaurant called Cabane à Sucre au Pied de Cochon. Naturally enough, it serves all manner of dishes in which maple syrup plays a role.
Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack has a similar playful design to Picard's first book, and the recipes are just as indulgent. It's heavy on the desserts, such as soft maple sugar candy, maple almond croissants, maple and almond nougat, strawberry charlotte with maple mousse and maple meringue, maple crème caramel, maple butter-glazed doughnuts filled with maple pastry cream, and maple sponge toffee (which is the first recipe I plan to try).
But there are also plenty of recipes for savoury dishes served at the sugar shack (and which don't necessarily include maple syrup), including tourtiere du shack (a tart filled with pig's trotters, calf's brain, sweetbread, foie gras, bacon and potatoes); lentil and cabbage stew; foie gras tatin; marrow bones and caviar; whole roasted foie gras; omelette soufflé (which contains bechamel, slow-cooked potatoes, lobster and salted fatback); and whole pig with mojo sauce, for which you'll need a very large oven (because it needs a pig weighing 30-35kg).
 


Book: Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack

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I've been searching high and low for this book by Montreal-based chef Martin Picard. I asked my friends visiting Canada to bring back a copy, but apparently it's hard to find there, too. Eventually, I resorted to ordering it through amazon.com - the shipping cost almost as much as the book.


Book: Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack

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Susan Jung