Lovage: forgotten herb that's now back in favour

Lovage is a flavouring I tasted only recently - in Tasmania last month. My husband ordered tiny new potatoes, which were served with butter and green flecks of a fresh herb that tasted vaguely of celery. I asked the manager about it and he told me it was lovage, adding that it is also delicious when used to season chicken broth.

Lovage is a strong, aromatic herb that, according to The Oxford Companion to Food, has been used since classical times, but seems to have fallen out of favour. In the medieval era, "the stems were cooked like celery, and the roots were made into a sweetmeat", while in Germany, "the plant had a reputation as a love potion".

The first time I saw lovage, I thought it was parsley - and, indeed, it belongs to the same plant family. The leaves are thin and delicate, and they wilt easily. Lovage is said to aid digestion and cleanse the blood. The entire plant - including the flowers and seeds - is edible. In addition to using it to season potatoes and chicken broth, lovage goes well with creamy soups, seafood and sautéed vegetables.