Saffron is expensive because it is so labour-intensive to produce: the stigmas are hand-plucked from the flowers, before being dried, in countries such as Spain, Iran, India, France, Italy and Turkey. Because saffron is so expensive, there are many counterfeits, which give the colour, but not the fragrance and flavour, of the real thing.

The spice is either sold in thin, delicate strands, or ground into a powder, with the former being far superior because it's easier to see if it's pure (although there are strands that look similar to saffron).

Saffron should be heated to bring out the flavour, usually by infusing it in a hot liquid (such as broth or cream), or by toasting it (I put it on a large metal spoon, then shake it gently over a gas flame).