Northern Yunnan a joy from its snowy summits to its deep gorges
Transport has greatly improved, there are more entry fees to pay and some tourist traps to beware of, but for now northern Yunnan retains much of the charms that first drew Martin Williams there 30 years ago
Daybreak in western Yunnan province. Clouds tinted pink by the sun rise over the hills fringing the eastern horizon. Below us, near the shore of Erhai Lake, Dali Old Town is awakening.
Yet we have no time to admire the scenery. I'm with Xi Zhinong, China's best-known wildlife photographer, and he's intent on finding spectacular game birds - Lady Amherst's pheasants - in woods just above his home.
Xi drives up a twisting dirt road, intently watching for movement. He sights a bird just ahead and stops the car. It's a splendid male, with a white belly, shining blue upperparts, a black and white shawl from head to shoulders and a billowing, 80cm-long silvery tail.
As I snap away, the pheasant strolls off, using skills a ninja would envy to merge with the forest. By breakfast, we've seen 12.
It's almost 30 years (wow, 30 years!) since I first came to Dali, and I'm intrigued to see how much has changed. A city of high-rises is growing south of the lake but the old town - the Dali that draws tourists - retains its charm.