Longans remain stubbornly seasonal amid wave of globalisation
In an era when we're used to fresh produce being available year-round, the berry is one of the few fruits available to Hong Kong shoppers only when it's in season, writes Jason Wordie
Selling fresh produce only when it's in season locally is increasingly rare at Hong Kong markets, and the phenomenon is closely linked to globalised trade patterns. Reliable, reasonably priced, refrigerated sea transport, combined with cheaper air freight in recent years, has ensured that as soon as oranges, pears, apples and grapes become unavailable in southern hemisphere countries, such as Australia and South Africa, the produce of northern regions, from Israel to North America, will step in.
In consequence, looking forward to a couple of months of gorging on a particular seasonal delight is an enjoyment denied to younger generations accustomed to year-round availability.
But some popular fruits do remain strictly seasonal, longans being an obvious example.
See also: For the foragers of Hong Kong, countryside is a veritable banquet
Almost as soon as Hong Kong's midsummer lychee binge finishes, the first longans mark the start of early autumn; they are among the most widely cultivated fruit trees in the Pearl River Delta region.
The word "longan" is an anglicisation of the Cantonese loong ngan ("dragon's eye"). In the Malay-speaking areas of Southeast Asia, where the fruit originated, they are known as mata kucing ("cat's eyes"); when the light brown fruit is opened, the translucent pulp and black seed core make it clear where such names come from.