Wines to watch from New South Wales' cooler climate vineyards
Sarah Wong samples chardonnay from the foot of the Snowy Mountains and Rhone-style syrah from Canberra
Australian wine is coming of age. In the past, the country's wines were big, bold, high-octane fruit bombs but they've evolved as producers seek out new, cooler regions.
New South Wales (NSW) displays a great diversity of wine styles. It is Australia's second-largest wine-producing state. In a country where the wine industry is dominated by large corporations, NSW is an anomaly, with family businesses accounting for more than 75 per cent of production.
Many of these producers are adopting new-age techniques, planting only what is suitable for the climate. Oak usage has been dialled back and there is a trend towards purity and elegance.
The McWilliam's estate was established in 1877 by Irish immigrant Samuel McWilliam, who planted vineyards in the Riverina region of NSW. The winery is now led by sixth-generation family member Scott McWilliam, who acknowledges he has big shoes to fill. A science geek at heart, McWilliam also believes that winemaking is an art.
"Wine is like a living organism and is always changing," he says.
That sentiment is reflected in the myriad styles of his wines. NSW has a diverse climate, from the warm, humid regions of the Hunter Valley, to the fertile plains of the Riverina and the mountainous areas. Today, it is the new cool-climate regions that are producing the most exciting wines. Here are a few that are worth looking out for.