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Then & NowHong Kong diamonds: essential shopping for celebrities and money launderers

Territory’s lack of a sales tax was long a lure for big jewellery buyers such as Elizabeth Taylor. These days the city’s diamond shops attract not just the well heeled, but money launderers

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A 407.48-carat diamond on display at Christie’s in Hong Kong, in 1988. Picture: SCMP
Jason Wordie

A diamond is forever – or so one of the leading South African mining companies has been pro­claiming as an enormously profitable advertising strapline since 1947.

Shrewd marketing campaigns have been colossally successful in persuading other­wise rational people that lumps of super-compressed carbon make fitting symbols of undying love and devotion. Helping to feed Hong Kong’s enormous appetite for diamonds, the pages of glossy local society magazines glitter with sparkly advert­isements for these extravagantly priced, closely coveted baubles.

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From the colony’s 19th-century begin­nings, flashy public displays of wealth were commonplace, and in the upper echelons of society, little has changed. Merchants’ wives – and mistresses – needed a con­stantly changing external pageant to demonstrate their own status as the kept women of a successful man. The crude fact that these women were sitting down firmly on the ultimate source of their personal fortunes was beside the point; material evidence of their feminine charms had to be ostentatiously worn around their necks and draped up their arms for their painstakingly obtained rank to enjoy any validity.

Commodification and monetisation of personal relationships through the giving and getting of gewgaws is, of course, not unique to Hong Kong society; but somehow, such staggering outward display does jar more here than it might in larger, less closely interconnected societies.

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A jewellery show in Hong Kong in 1978. Picture: SCMP
A jewellery show in Hong Kong in 1978. Picture: SCMP
For many years, Hong Kong’s high-end jewellery trade was controlled by Jewish entrepreneurs; some from Shanghai or elsewhere along the China coast. Sennet Frères, in Central, was a renowned local “luxury brand” long before that horrid term even existed, and was Jewish owned. The lack of a sales tax in Hong Kong made buying jewellery very appealing, particularly high-priced items. International celeb­rities such as Elizabeth Taylor regularly came through Hong Kong in the 1950s and ’60s to shop for jewellery, and lesser Hollywood luminaries followed suit.
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