-
Advertisement
PostMag
Life.Culture.Discovery.
Netflix
MagazinesPostMag
Stephen McCarty

What a view | Street Food documentary on Netflix tells the human stories behind some of Asia’s tastiest dishes

  • The nine-part series looks at the culinary traditions of Thailand, Japan, India, Indonesia, Taiwan, South Korea, Vietnam, Singapore and the Philippines

Reading Time:3 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
Mbah Satinem has been selling jajan pasar, traditional Indonesian cakes, on the streets of Yogyakarta for decades. Photo: Martin Westlake / Netflix

They’re here! Yes, Smell-O-Vision and Taste-O-Vision have finally made it to our screens! Go back to your kitchens (or wherever you watch television) and prepare for sensory overload!

Well, actually, no: they’re not really here, not yet. But food shows will never be the same again anyway, thanks to exemplary nine-part Netflix documentary series Street Food, which celebrates – you guessed it – some of the most evocative and irresistible dishes available on Asian road, avenue and byway.

It does it by bringing through not just a sort of extrasensory perception of aromas and flavours, but by adding a main course of biography (of the extraordinary characters behind wok, grill and cart) and appreciation of context (Osaka to Yogyakarta, Delhi to Singapore to Cebu and beyond – but not Hong Kong).
Advertisement
This column has previously wondered what constitutes the indispensable food show (and whether it’s just a travel show in disguise) and it may be that Street Food presents the optimum combination of ingredients.

First, then, what are we eating? Tom yum, drunken noodles and curry in Bangkok; okonomiyaki and takoyaki in Osaka; tofu pudding and fish-head soup in Chiayi, Taiwan; snail in Ho Chi Minh City; putu piring in Singapore: nothing fancy, you might think, but that’s the point. As food writer Chawadee Nualkhair puts it in the Thai instalment, outstanding street chefs elevate common dishes to exceptional heights.

Advertisement

And who are these people? They are down-to-earth characters starring in their own pavement productions, and all, from stooped, snaggle-toothed Mbah Satinem in Yogyakarta to jolly, self-styled “con artist” and “magician who manipulates fire” Toyo in Osaka, cook with the one component essential for “authentic, real, honest” traditional food: love for what they make, however unashamedly clichéd that might sound. These street chefs, as much as the sensually compelling dishes they create, are part of the cultural fabric of their cities, a social glue bringing people together – citizens, not just gawking tourists.

Advertisement
Select Voice
Select Speed
1.00x