Review | An intoxicating tale of a wine forger whose guests included Jackie Chan
Peter Hellman decants fraudster Rudy Kurniawan, who filled old bottles with new wine, gambling that no one would notice
In Vino Duplicitas
by Peter Hellman
The Experiment
All started unravelling, however, when French winemaker Laurent Ponsot had 20 lots of Domaine Ponsot red burgundies removed from auction because of “inconsistencies”. At the auction were Kurniawan (the consignor) and author Peter Hellman, who approached him for a response, only to be told, “S*** happens.” Indeed, Kurniawan made that happen by refilling old bottles, forging labels and knowing that most drinkers wouldn’t have a clue how a rare vintage should taste. Indeed, some of the cheated could well have been Hongkongers, Hellman writes, because the city’s collectors are relatively new to the “wine game”.