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ReviewBehold the history of men’s fashion and see how splendid it used to be

  • ‘Fashioning Masculinities’, the catalogue from the Victoria and Albert Museum’s current exhibition, is full of beautiful images of menswear through the ages
  • The publication reminds us that there once were alternatives to today’s sobering styles, gesturing towards a more colourful and extravagant future

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“Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear”, from editors Claire Wilcox and Rosalind McKever, is the catalogue from the current exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, in London, and takes readers on a journey though the history of men’s fashion. Photo: Victoria and Albert Museum
Richard Thompson Ford

It’s been more than a decade since social critics began to lament – or celebrate – the “death of men”.

The idea was that in a technologically advanced world where connection and cooperation were indispensable to success, masculine virtues – physical strength, bravery, stoicism – were no longer necessary while once tolerated masculine vices – violence, anger issues, recklessness, emotional detachment – were increasingly unacceptable.

Men, it turns out, have not quite died out yet. Some are clinging to the old ways in a desperate attempt to retain patriarchal privilege. But others are reinventing masculinity, drawing on the most evocative, seductive and charismatic examples from the past to fashion a new man who doesn’t so much defy conventional gender roles as transcend them.

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Fashioning Masculinities, the catalogue from the current exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, in London, comes along right on cue to illustrate and explain 21st century masculinity.

A display at the Victoria and Albert Museum’s “Fashioning Masculinities” exhibition. Photo: Victoria and Albert Museum
A display at the Victoria and Albert Museum’s “Fashioning Masculinities” exhibition. Photo: Victoria and Albert Museum

The book contains short, savvy essays exploring aspects of masculine fashion. And it is beautiful: full of crisply rendered images of paintings, photojournalism and photographs of garments from the V&A’s unparalleled collection.

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