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US$300,000 for a mechanical Apple Watch ‘parody’, and other new releases from indie brands

Three timepieces from independent watchmakers MB&F, Ressence and H. Moser & Cie

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Why you can trust SCMP
MB&F’s Legacy Machine Perpetual is ‘pure perfection’.
Abid Rahman

In a recent, pointless argument with my bourgeois, don’t-know-how-good-they’ve-got-it friends, I realised that I don’t fully understand what indie music is. On a basic level, one would assume “indie” is short for “independent”, meaning the music has been released by an independent label. Well, that’s the American interpretation, anyhow.

If you’re from Britain, however, indie music is basically any guitar music and all the biggest indie bands, including horrendous dross such as Kasabian and the Kaiser Chiefs, are on the most corporate labels possible. So which is it? What does it all mean? Does anyone really care?

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In the watch world, things are a lot clearer, in that independent means exactly that and the brands claiming indie status don’t belong to monolithic conglomerates such as Richemont, Swatch Group, LVMH and Kering.

So, this week, we’re going to look at indies, starting with one of my faves, MB&F, and the Legacy Machine Perpetual. OK, this bad boy was first launched way back in 2015, an innocent, halcyon time when American presidents didn’t get spanked by porn stars, but, for 2018, MB&F has kicked things up a notch by releasing a titanium version of the watch, meaning I can write about it again. Huzzah! I don’t have the space or the words to fully explain how much I love this timepiece; it is pure perfection. With its eccentric, very Max Büsser, twist, the design harkens back to watchmaking of the past but also has elements of steam punk and flashes of modern flair.
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The key feature, as the name suggests, is the perpetual calendar, so the watch indicates day, date, month with retro­grade indicator for leap years. MB&F and Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell want you to see the beauty of their very complicated movement so it’s all there, pulsing away in front of you. The domed glass that sits on the dial also gives the watch a 3D quality and renders things even more dramatic. Limited to 50 pieces, the titanium LMP is priced at 148,000 Swiss francs (US$152,000).

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