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How the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust changed watchmaking forever

When the Swiss brand released its iconic wristwatch in 1945, it was revolutionary for a simple yet groundbreaking innovation: the date display

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The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 with a bezel set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds and an aubergine, sunray-finish dial with a diamond-set VI. Photo: Handout
SCMP Reporter

While luxury lovers and watch aficionados will be familiar with the Oyster Perpetual Datejust, one of the most iconic of all timepieces, what they may not know is that the wristwatch, first released by Rolex in 1945, is not just a timeless and elegant example of fine watchmaking but also a marvel of 20th century engineering.

With Rolex then marking its 40th anniversary, the Swiss brand’s launch of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust was revolutionary in watchmaking circles for one simple yet ground­breaking innovation: the date display.

The idea of placing a window at the three o’clock position displaying the date was a milestone for Rolex and the watchmaking industry at large. Artisans in the company’s Swiss ateliers created a spring mechanism that allowed the date disk to make an instant jump at midnight, ensuring that the date was “just”. Hence the name: Datejust.

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The Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 with a white lacquer dial. Photo: Handout
The Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 with a white lacquer dial. Photo: Handout

Another signature element of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust is the waterproof case, just one of many pioneering innovations by Rolex.

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Legend has it that Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, came up with the name while attempting to open an oyster shell, which usually requires special cutlery.

Similarly, Rolex Oyster cases are so resist­ant to water and other external elements that they can only be pried open with a set of special tools.

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